Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Endless Summer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: M. Hartrich, R. Ruprel
Page Views: 11,106 total · 79/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


248 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pine Tree is somewhat of a nemesis at the grade for many and a favorite to others. Though it is a crack climb, it is not very straightforward, and you might do well to keep an eye out for some foot holds on the face. Lots of jamming and some odd undercling jams will get you to my favorite jug at Cathedral at about halfway. Continue up some much more straightforward climbing to a root that leads to the top. At that point you can decide your ethics on grabbing the root or avoiding it.

Pine Tree is highly recommended for its interesting moves and awesome exposed positioning.

Location

Right above the route Thin Air (5.6), there is a face with a few cracks that look like they need to be climbed. The one on the right, the wider one, is Pine Tree Eliminate.

Protection

Standard rack. Pine Tree is well protected all the way. Belay from trees at the top.

I've seen it done with lots of cams, and I've done it with only nuts.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
This is a sweet route, if all the moves are done right it is 5.8, but if you start doing moves wrong, or miss key holds, it gets harder; take your time. A good finish if you've just done Thin Air. Feb 19, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.8+
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.8+
I don't think this is as well protected as the route description implies. The crack flares inward making it difficult the get the right sized cams into the crack in the first place. I always end up spending more time than I want to fiddling with gear on this thing. Maybe it's just me, but I have a hard time protecting this one. Feb 20, 2007
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
The nature of the crack can make protecting with cams tricky sometimes. Nuts are key. Feb 23, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I've climbed this crack 10 or more times, that might be why I feel it is so well protected but...I know where everything goes....
Nuts are totaly key.... Climb it slow and find the gear, I've seen people sew it up.... Feb 27, 2007
Ladd

  5.8+
Ladd    
  5.8+
I agree with Jay, while climbing Play Misty with a UNH outdoor ed. teacher during a trad. leading workshop we saw a fellow student deck after her second piece popped out. She dropped the class but was physicaly unhurt.
Take your time and place good gear near the bottom, the flaring nature of the crack means that it takes experience to place good pro. Apr 20, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
since my last post on this route i've climbed it about 3 more times and i always place 1 cam in the bottom to keep from zippering then all nuts to the top, i never even think about cams on route anymore as they are way trickier to place for the most part... While i agree that this is not a good lead for a beginner there is no reason to fear if you know how to place solid nuts... May 31, 2008
GMBurns
  5.9 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.9 PG13
Doesn't climb like a crack, and all the holds are definitely there. I emptied my rack on this thing my first time. I think I'll be able to get it clean the next time. Jul 15, 2008
Zigs
 
Zigs  
 
I found the first two or so placements to be a bit tenuous but after that found the protection to be closely spaced and quite solid. As to the moves, I think it is more intimidating than hard since there are good jugs and jams where you need them. A lot of the best holds, though, can be hidden or seem to come right after hard or thin moves. Dec 1, 2008
JSH

JSH    
I have also seen someone deck from this route ... be careful to protect ledge-fall (and zippering!), the ground is closer than you think.

This route can be 5.8. Unless you climb it like the crack that it is (ie, minimize your use of feet on the face), and find the good stances, it can seem much harder, very quickly, and more so than other routes. The pro does sometimes take a moment to get right, but it's 100% G.

Such sweet climbing and position, though! Apr 27, 2009
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8
Fun climb. Eats Gear. I thought the toughest part was the first 15 feet. Aug 2, 2009
Spiro Spiro
  5.8+
Spiro Spiro  
  5.8+
Crack begged to be climbed for sure. Great climb, easy gear, thoughtful moves. Aug 9, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
People deck from Black Lung all the time too. Both routes are well geared with patience. Sep 30, 2009
JHeath  
I've been up thin air a hand full of times and finally did this route today. Everything is there if you look for it including a couple no hands rest, and nuts are definitely key. I think I only used two cams. Aug 19, 2010
Tim Wolsonovich
Boston
  5.8+
Tim Wolsonovich   Boston
  5.8+
I tried to do it with cams, including a micro in the right side of that blocky looking formation about 15-20 feet up. It pulled out as I climbed past it, which had never happened to me before. Fortunately I had a good stance and was able to place better gear right away. I lowered, let a friend try it, then led it again successfuly. I don't have loads of trad experience, but the second try went MUCH better and I was able to send it fairly clean.

Second time I placed some cams, but several nuts and tri-cams as well.

-t Oct 20, 2010
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
Amazing route, sent yesterday soaking wet, it has bomber finger locks. The start is slippery, seems lots of people get on it. I think best route of the grade at Cathedral. It eats up nuts pretty well. Little but easy runout after the second bulge to the trees. Aug 30, 2011
My first 5.8 crack. Totally awesome. Worth a shot even if you need to bail it's easy to rap down from the top to clean your gear. Do it, you'll love it. VERY wet start ledge I ended up putting my approach shoes over the water, (then put my climbing shoes on). I then stepped from the side on top of them to start the climb with dry feet. May 29, 2012
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
There's not a move harder than 5.8 on this route; the challenge is just that every move in the first 30 feet is solidly 5.8.

To my view, the crux is gaining the pod below the first overhang. Both of the overhangs are actually pretty easy, and like the whole route, are very well protected.

Well protected? You bet. Maybe too well protected. If you don't watch out, you'll end up placing 18 pieces like I did. Jul 20, 2012
Just did this yesterday and it was fun, but I sewed it up because I was pretty terrified. I must have placed about 10-12 pieces of gear and would have placed more if I had enough slings/draws. Great way to finish up after Thin Air though! Jun 4, 2013
Ryan Nelling  
 
Pro's great the whole way up. Spoiler alert - you can protect the wide section with a green C3, to the left of the crack in a small feature on the face. Awesome climb!! A must-do after coming up the Thin Air face. Aug 9, 2013
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.8+
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.8+
Awesome route - you'll love climbing this Jun 25, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I concur- Way fun. One of the best pitches I've done in NH. We set up a top rope on it, after doing Thin Air. I grunted and hauled and sweated harder on this pitch than on the entire climbing below... Awesome awesome line Aug 24, 2015
Tom D
New York
  5.8+
Tom D   New York
  5.8+
Found the lower 15-20ft to be a little pumpy and hard to protect. The climb eases despite the daunting mini roof ahead.

There is also a huge echo which makes communicating a bit hard. Sep 21, 2015
Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
Really fun climb! It protects great if you use nuts. I think I only placed two cams on the whole thing, the rest of the protection being nuts. It felt very safe that way. May 13, 2016

More About Pine Tree Eliminate

Printer-Friendly