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Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman
Page Views: 1,288 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route is notoriously hard to protect, not because there are no placements but because it is very hard to fight the barn-door and see the placements.

If it is within your ethics...place protection from the ground. Crux lies about 8 feet above ledge (blue Alien to protect crux in small slot out left (invisible)).

After crux place #1-#2 in the obvious hand sized crack and mantle the mini ledge follow the super crack system to the top. Tree anchor.

Location

This route lies driectly right of Pine tree Eliminate. Belay from below a VW-beatle-sized boulder.

Protection

See above

Photos

Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
  5.11c
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
  5.11c
A lot of hate in the comments for this route so I thought I'd add my opinion. Really fun climbing and well protected (not pg-13), albeit the gear is hard to place in a couple of spots. The top is insecure and a bit dirty but easy compared to the crux.

Get on it while it is clean! Sep 5, 2017
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
This route prolly has been scrubbed more times than it has been climbed. Jun 19, 2016
I scrubbed this thing up the other day so if you've been thinking about getting on it, now is the time. Jun 19, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
i agree chris, on pretty much all of your points... i climbed The prow to get the confidence for this one haha...
And i dont know what ladd meant by placing your gear from the ground? if i could do that id do it on all the routes i climb haha... i found the crux moves and crux gear placement to be 10+ feet off that 1st ledge... Jun 24, 2012
chris magness  
5.11+
The description for this route is somewhat misleading. Play Misty is a finger crack and thus protects mostly with smaller gear. The crack widens after the crux and will accept some wider gear (#1 or so) and the upper crack will also accept up to a .75.

The only portion of the climb that is a little spicey is the top of the second tier where the crack becomes flared, otherwise IF you can hang on to place the gear, the protection is quite good. Also, Play Misty is stiff for the grade. It makes nearby Airation feel like nursery school climbing. Jun 24, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
got shut down on my first attempt last year... today it went...

good climbing... protecting was strenuous (there is currently a stuck nut on it though)... the top section was a little dirty but wasnt a big problem... Jun 9, 2012
this discription needs a rehab. No pin is fixed and there doesnt need to be a new one, gear is excellent albiet small and akward to place. The 5.10 crack nearing the top after the crux has no lichen on it and is very clean and well protected, I used nothing larger than a .75 and was very well protected the entire time. Excellent route, varied climbing with a "pumped out of your mind from the crux" tricky, crescendo finish. Jun 21, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11c PG13
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11c PG13
Burlap and I got on this yestersday, classic route. We climbed the crux as a technical crack route, didn't see any blind placements or trickery. I laced up the bottom and fell on a bunch on the gear so it all seemed pretty good. The exit was tough, then another 50+ feet of tricky 9+/10- climbing. Needs a redpoint from me! Jun 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
haha thanks john, i had that feeling too... but now i just want to understand it... Jun 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Lee, It must just be me. But i would not waste my time on this route, I have never thought it was any good. Jun 16, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
i got my ass handed to me on this today.... nothing epic other than my failure haha... but after reading the description i find my self more lost than ever.... i saw no hand crack for a #1 or #2, i was able to place 4 or 5 pieces small (cams and nuts) before bailing and cleaning down the climb... i was climbing the pods in the corner off the ledge am i supossed to be elsewhere where this description would make sense to me? also one of the well chalked pods i used was all crumbling and falling apart... bummer, i was looking forward to this route... any idea what gives ??? Jun 15, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Sure this was one of James' favorite's but he did not do the ffa. Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman from the UK were pointed at the route by Ed Webster in 78.
agreed though ,much more committing w/o the pin

john Jun 17, 2008
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
It might have been considered at some point by the crew up in North Conway, althought since it hasn't so far and the route is so infrequently climbed I don't see that happening.
Personally I like that this climb is so commiting because of that placement, I like it without a pin and I won't be adding a pin there. Nov 9, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin. Nov 9, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
There is no pin at the crux now, just a blue alien placement in the old pin scar, but you can't see it and there is definitly a bad spot where the placement is not good, hence the PG13 because your gear coule be bad and you wouldn't have a clue.

Also the upper section is so lichen covered and unprotectable, a fall from up there would be disasterous. Nov 5, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux. Oct 7, 2007