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Routes in Airation Buttress
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Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Autoclave T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camber - The Dunn Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Camber With A View T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chockstone Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clean Sweep T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Endless Summer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goofer's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heather T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hippodrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jessie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kill Your Television (Mid-Cliff Start) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Play Misty T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach the Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reverse Camber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spankings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Tabu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Henry Barber and Bill O'Connell, summer 1970 |
| Page Views: | 1,807 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | David Lottmann on Sep 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
The second pitch of this was cleaned in 2016 and offers some of the best 5.5-5.6 climbing on the cliff. You must rap in unless you lead the first pitch which is burly 5.10. Detailed topo and directions here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2020/09/17/route-guide-the-best-5-6-pitch-on-cathedral-ledge/
Beta on P1 from Grant Simmons: Great climbing. The first pitch starts with a rowdy pull over the roof to gain the corner. Stem and jam the corner to an alcove and exit with some wild, airy moves. Above, climb easier (but still demanding) cracks and flakes to reach the bolted belay at the base of the pine tree. While the regular second pitch is awesome at the grade, if you are looking for a more sustained, more direct option, the better finish could be Tabu (5.9).
P1 Rack to #4 (an extra .75 would probably be nice).
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