Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978
Page Views: 14,006 total · 68/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Feb 16, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way. Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you'll find that you'll work for this one both mentally and physically.

Pitch 1: From the anchor Tourist Treat anchor, climb the seam (two bolts), then clip a high third bolt and move right, making a 15' runout (5.8) to a bolt below the overhanging, left-facing corner. Climb the corner and pull the overhang (two bolts, crux) to reach a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.

Location Suggest change

Start from the Tourist Treat anchor. Camber climbs through the roof via a nice corner.

Protection Suggest change

Pitch one: Mostly bolts, so bring draws and at least one long sling. Maybe a TCU as you leave the ledge. Bolted belay

Pitch two: 2 drilled pins then trad gear. Bring draws and a standard rack.

Photos

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