Avg: 3.8 from 48 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978|
|Page Views:||11,866 total · 71/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Feb 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.
An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through. The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out. The falls are safe though a bit airy.
Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.