Avg: 3.9 from 41 votes
Routes in Airation Buttress
|Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R|
|Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978|
|Page Views:||9,414 total, 72/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Feb 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way. Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you will find that you will work for this one both mentally and physically.
Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.
An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through. The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out. The falls are safe though a bit airy.
Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.