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Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978
Page Views: 9,414 total, 72/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way. Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you will find that you will work for this one both mentally and physically.

Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.

An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through. The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out. The falls are safe though a bit airy.

Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.

Location

Just above the anchor for Miss Saigon. Camber climbs through the roof via a nice corner.

Protection

Pitch one: Mostly bolts, so bring draws and at least one long sling. Maybe a TCU as you leave the ledge. Bolted belay

Pitch two: 2 drilled pins then trad gear. Bring draws and a standard rack.
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Anchor has been replaced as of 7/27/17 Jul 28, 2017
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.11b
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.11b
This can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

In fact, we did it as a single pitch from the top of rapid transit, which is a little lower than the normal start. Double ropes used with the direct (run-out) start for P1 of Camber. Sep 1, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Personally, the drilled pins are a disaster and always have been real bolts. following the original reverse camber is the way to go,,even one more for the 5.11 finish maybe,,even maybe the Camber finish, going right and then up..nice climbing Jun 23, 2014
Honestly, though I don't recall struggling with that section at all last year, I fell unexpectedly while "resting" above the mini-crux mantle on the first pitch and though the rusty 3/8th inch (from the looks of it) bolt looks to have seen better days, it held. A couple more falls like that and for sure the replacement bolt will be all that's left.

The hangars on the anchors for the first pitch are a bit loose and the two drilled pins above are, in my mind, much more in need of scrutiny. I have no issue with the runout between the second pin and the crack - we are trad climbing, after all - but at least the exposed parts of them are in dubious shape. After getting worked this time around on the first pitch, I certainly had a few moments of serious soul searching after making the move above the "thank god" pocket. It's possible that I stuffed a nut / small cam in there last year. Jun 23, 2014
Matt Stamplis
Boston, MA
Matt Stamplis   Boston, MA
John, I think the first bolt was replaced (not a new hole). There's still a healthy 30' run-out between the first and 2nd bolts (climbing straight up). That second bolt is a new hole but it's only 6-12" below the original bolt. Jun 22, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
MORE bolts..? Iguessa 36 yr old routethat has been climbed many times isn't safe?

If this is the case, these people are assholes, pure and simple Jun 22, 2014
Went up the saigons and camber today - which I last climbed last year during the fall. I was surprised to see some shiny new bolts on the saigons - moreso by the new first bolt on Camber, which has taken quite a bit of the bite out of the initial run-out. There's also a new bolt right below the old and rusted bolt below the mini crux on the first pitch. Jun 21, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Right, the original camber and Tourist treat starts are often confused. The camber start is more run out. Jun 30, 2011
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
after the first bolt on P1 you can climb strait up (and slightly left) to the fourth bolt to avoid going way left ( where the bolts go). its prob a good 30' b/t the bolts and is pretty heady but the moves are not terrible (maybe one 5.9ish move in there) Jun 1, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for noting that... most folks finish on reverse camber these days so i put that in the description... im glad you set it straight... Jun 1, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The actual original Camber goes right from the belay towards a tree and then finishes above. The P2 described is Reverse Camber, done originally by Webster around 1980. You can also stay out of the crack at the top (TR) at around 11C.
Room With A View is also right in front of you and although a bit runout, it is a good TR at 11D. Jun 1, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
This is a must-do route in this area, and I think 11b is spot on. Aug 22, 2007
Ladd    
If the crux seems tricky borrow and watch a copy of Uncommon Ground (it features the route's crux sequence) Apr 12, 2007