Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978
Page Views: 10,974 total · 71/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way. Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you will find that you will work for this one both mentally and physically.

Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.

An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through. The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out. The falls are safe though a bit airy.

Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.

Location

Just above the anchor for Miss Saigon. Camber climbs through the roof via a nice corner.

Protection

Pitch one: Mostly bolts, so bring draws and at least one long sling. Maybe a TCU as you leave the ledge. Bolted belay

Pitch two: 2 drilled pins then trad gear. Bring draws and a standard rack.

Photos