Camber - The Dunn Finish
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Jimmy Dunn, Jeff Pheasant, Ed Skylar. November 1978. |
Page Views: | 247 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Oct 25, 2022 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A very unique and wild pitch, which features a beautiful, moderate crack, guarded on either end by hard crack/face climbing. The original finish to Camber, this challenging and wandering pitch has fallen out of style in favor of the more direct finish, Reverse Camber. It was reclaimed by lichen for a while, but was recently cleaned as of 2022 and climbs quite well now. It demands skill in many styles, including crimps, crack, slab and even a little downclimbing, all while keeping a cool head.
From the bolted belay at the base of Reverse Camber, step right on steep slab to a bolt. Clip the bolt and make a few delicate steps down to to some good feet (crux, 5.10d) Make a big step right to another good foot and a hidden solution pocket. Gain a small pedistool ledge, and make easier moves on big holds to the next ledge up, where you can get a hand sized cam. Climb the moderate crack, moving left through cool mantels, gaining a steep corner. Place your last hand sized piece, then step up with a little stemming and a unique hold, gaining a left facing flake. Protect in the flake (black tricam works well), then escape the corner to the right, using good crimps, which progressively blend into a ledge (5.10a). Make one final mantel on the ledge, standing up to easy ground. Belay in the classic crack on hand sized gear. 5.10d.
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