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Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: peter beal, ...... jim surette
Page Views: 2,132 total, 23/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

What a horror show nightmare of ethics with this one! I'll let Peter comment if he wants. All I will say is this is a magnificent piece of classic Cathedral steep slabbin' in a great situation.

Location

Right of Reverse Camber, climbs up ever steepening perfect rock to the cruxy top.

Protection

Several bolts. There is a bit of serious 9+ climbing to the first one.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
For a nice longer pitch- start at the Camber belay, up reverse Camber then right to RWAV May 17, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
NA ! 10d is 9+ Nice climb though. May 12, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11+
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11+
Sharp! Thin! Superb! Very easy to set up a TR.

Runout to the first bolt looks pretty heady. If someone fell before the bolt they would probably pendulum and swing over the Camber overlap. Some extra data: Webster calls the initial runout .10d, not 9+. May 12, 2010