Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: surette/ burke '85
Page Views: 671 total · 6/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Here's one that doesn't get done. The crux is classic Cathedral steep facey/slab with some fixed junk for gear. Excellent situation. Pitch one if pretty serious 10+ RR. Basically the route would be really good with a fix-up. Originally started by Mr Dunn but not finished.
With demise of the original Camber tree, the direct finish on this one would be the way to go. I have tr'd this but not bolted it (1-2 bolts).

Location

Left of Reach the Sky. OR P1 Start just right of Camber. Go up and right to a spooky mantle on to sloping belay ledge. P2 up on small slopies and some crisp edges -tough and sustained to the summit "handcrack" anchor. You also could rap and just do P2.

Protection

Lot's of fixed junk, bolts, bashies etc. A couple of cams for P1.

Photos

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nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
John, was this an aid route at one time? Or were the heads just used for pro (scary). Mar 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
  5.12
john strand   southern colo
  5.12
Not to my knowledge. it was combo rap bolted/lead bolted aided. If fixed up, it would be brilliant. Mar 16, 2010
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
Webster's gudebook describes heading out left to the Camber tree, which, as John points out, ain't there. There is an independent top out on some bolts, 10-ish, but the whole thing together is pretty spooky. The scariest part is after the crux , doing a mantle 20-25' out. A flake that used to take gear ripped off when I fell seconding the crux, some cams blew it out and sent it right at my head - it was a directional as the leader had taken a right and belayed on Reach of the Sky. I dodged the bullet. Anyway, that flake was the only gear for a ways and that bolted top out was apparently Bouchard's. Sounds like he may have never gotten around to doing it. I've been up through there, but not without fallng at the 5.12 crux. So its there for somebody.. Roll your nuts in in a wheel barrow for this one.

I don't remember any bashies. Apr 29, 2010
john strand
southern colo
  5.12
john strand   southern colo
  5.12
It is a pretty spooky route in parts. maybe the bashies fell out. May 10, 2010