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Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA Rick Fleming 1980
Page Views: 2,635 total · 22/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A fierce line from ages ago. I seem to remember Rick spending a week on the FA. The crack is hard and sustained with a face climbing boulder crux at half height. Move left to ledge then back right over a bulge to finish (pin).


Just right of Airation


Gear is good but takes some time at the crux (wires). A typical Cathedral hard thin crack.


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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hi John. How are you? I might add a few things to your description. The route involves a fairly stout and potentially painful boulder problem right off the tree ledge. The section traversing left is hard but don't underestimate the last bulge either. Has someone done the route without the ledge? Lastly, climbers will want tape since much of the crack consists of those finger-munching little pods typical of the Airation buttress.

Most ratings of Heather that I have seen are 5.12b. It's probably a bit longer than 75 feet since it goes to the top of the wall. Jun 2, 2008
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Hello Peter, good to hear from you. I'm older and pretty arthritic but living in southern colo and building a house. I hope to be climbing again in the fall.

I sure don't know of anyone going straight up without the ledge but it sure seems possible.Was the boulder start done by Hugh ? The move right on the bulge IS hard but I always thought it not the crux- but the route really has 3 hard sections and is tough.

john Jun 12, 2008
I'd like to think someone has gone straight up. It would add 3-4 cool hard moves. The ledge rest is kind of a flaw in the line, but bypassing it would fix that problem! Jan 31, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Is this the Rick Fleming who first freed Heather? I remember working on the moves going straight up on toprope but it might be more contrived than it appears. Feb 1, 2009
Hi Peter. Yes, same me. I haven't been on the route since 1980, but climbing plenty. I looked once at the straight up version, and even broke an old fixed pin on a fall. The rest version was good enough for me back then! Feb 2, 2009

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