Reverse Camber
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 44.06337, -71.16628 |
| FA: | FA: Jimmy Dunn, Aug. 1980 (TR); Ed Webster & Strappo Hughes, Aug. 1980 (Lead) |
| Page Views: | 127 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Grant on Sep 25, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
People now climb this route as the second pitch of Camber, but originally "The Dunn Finish" was the final pitch of Camber, and "Reverse Camber" was a popular variation that most climbers top-roped. Today, Reverse Camber is far more popular than Camber, almost always climbed on TR, and I think it merits its own separate route description (even though the late, great, and extraordinary Lee Hansche described the route well in his MP description of the second pitch of Camber).
Lower from the top of the Airation Buttress to the two-bolt anchor at the top of the 1st pitch of Camber. This anchor is just above the big overlap, and a clean white face rises above. The holds on Reverse Camber are so well used (but not polished), that they appear whiter than the rock, almost as if they are chalked.
Climb the thin face past two widely spaced "drilled pins" (angle pitons whacked into man-made holes in the rock. Go figure—only at Cathedral), and then head left toward the obvious crack of Tourist Treat.
VARIATION I: Rather than heading left after the second drilled pin, keep going straight up (there's at least one bolt) until just before the final headwall, and then steer left to meet the crack. 5.10c.
VARIATION II: The steep final headwall (15 feet or so, no protection) goes at about 5.11b. It's almost always top-roped.



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