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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Strings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Henry Barber, May 1973
Page Views: 24,047 total · 181/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.

Location

On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.

Protection

Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
^^^
Apparently, the comments you're referencing have been removed? Oct 24, 2017
Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
That's a lot of irrelevant homophobia and judgement. Since when do we have to conform to your standards? I bet you're the same folk going around removing safety gear from climbs. If you're so good, then go test yourself against the big boys at a real competition. Or maybe just STFU and remember that climbing is about freedom and good times. Oct 23, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
The .75 is very fiddly at the top, if you have 4 .5 bd I would bring that instead. Oct 6, 2017
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
Whoaa, Henry Barber route! Will definitely have to get on this at some point. Apr 28, 2016
In 1979 John Bachar climbed this ropeless Jul 16, 2015
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
^ last I checked i can't tape for size when my fingers barely fit in a .3 c4 crack up to my cuticles, .5's are pretty perfect and you don't see most people with big fingers like me taping up to make .75's locker. Don't get fixated on making the crack fit the grade, if the size is hard then it is hard and you should just practice it. Chances are the hardest it becomes is 2 MAYBE 3 letter grades harder if your fingers are small for the crack. Remember, tape is aid ;D Jul 11, 2015
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
just a great finger crack Jan 14, 2010
Ben Lepesant
  5.11c
Ben Lepesant  
  5.11c
ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh. Feb 6, 2009
Ben Lepesant
  5.11c
Ben Lepesant  
  5.11c
for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big! Jan 27, 2009
Brad G
 
Brad G  
 
The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley. Nov 5, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:

2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot

That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!). Oct 22, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is. May 17, 2007

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