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Routes in Griffin Falls

Collinsville Whore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Daydream Nation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Letter Office S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flapjack S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grace Under Pressure S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Horse S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Just Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Plow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knife Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lazy Eight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pasture Prime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Windows S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Second Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steeplechase S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thin Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed off-width T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whetstone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Whorl S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Wisteria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
help your self S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jack Pierce, Tommy Taylor - 1970s
Page Views: 4,439 total, 34/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Even if this was the only outstanding route at this little crag (and it isn't), Knife Crack alone would make a visit to Griffin's worthwhile. Finger crack climbing at its finest with plentiful protection; the only thing wrong with Knife Crack is that it's too short.

Follow the jagged crack, using finger locks and foot jams, to a ledge with anchors below the roof. The crux is down low; things ease up some with better feet further up the crack.

Location

A short distance down the trail from the waterfall; starts about 10' right of Whetstone.

Protection

Small to medium gear (cams/tricams/nuts); ring anchors.
Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
The roof above the crack was freed @ 5.12 by Russ Raffa and maybe Gene Smith? Feb 23, 2017
Kim Ran
 
Kim Ran  
 
Best crack climb in Alabama? I would say so! This crack climbs beautifully. The movements were wonderfully fluid and I will definitely make a trip back to Griffin to climb this gem again! May 23, 2016
I first went to Griffin Falls in about 1975 with Tommy Taylor, Joe Sherrill, and Kip Simmons. We asked Tommy about the route and he said it had not been freed. Kip and I returned a few weeks later and got the FFA as far as I know. I'm not sure what Jack and Tommy named the route, but we always called it Knife Crack. Dec 11, 2014
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
 
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
 
"Outstanding" is also the way I would describe this climb. I swung into Griffin Falls on the way back from Chattanooga this weekend. Weather was perfect, and we were the only ones at the crag (Sandrock was probably packed). Worth a visit, even if you only climb this route. Protection is great, and the climb is challenging and fun. A Classic!! Oct 7, 2014
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Nice picture. Thats one of my favorite crack climbs!! Mar 19, 2008