Type: Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Horning, B. Slichter '77
Page Views: 26,522 total · 95/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2001
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

Another fine route at Devil's Tower, and with more balanced difficulty- fun for everyone and in a variety of sizes!Like Carol's crack, this remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!

Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards the north-most edge of the West Face. You will see a double hanging roof where two pillars are broken off from below. This route ascends the system that goes up between them after a few hundred feet. Until a picture is directly associated with this description, owning the guidebook may be necessary to find the climb.

P1: 150' 5.10c From the face below this system, traverse out and up right to a near-splitter finger crack. About 90' up or so a long crux sequence begins. This is more technical than physical and is not terribly pumpy. The crux protects on TCU's and stoppers. Climb to fixed anchors on a sloping ledge below a small roof. A 3-star pitch by its own merit.

P2: 130' 5.9 Jam up on hands and thin hands through the bulge above and get into the splitter which gets wider in some spots- this is where the bigger cams will go. You will arrive at a ledge with a good fixed anchor after over 1/2 rope length of sustained good climbing. From here you can get great photos of teams on Carol's Crack. This is a two or three-star pitch as well. Most people rap from here, as the rock does not improve. if you've taken enough gear though, and a 70M rope, you can run this right into the next pitch!

P3: 70' 5.9 You can continue up through 5.9 crack territory (70') to reach another ledge with another fixed anchor. If this pitch was done independently, you can run it into P4, if you like.

P4: 80' 5.8. Worm up the overhanging chimney above. It doesn't look to appetizing, and we decided not to do this pitch and rap off instead. If you do P4, you can once again hit the summit, however, via P5...

P5: 70' 5.easy Reportedly a traverse left and up various cracks deposits the climber atop the rock. This makes descent complex, however, and the climbing doesn't look spectacular.

Protection Suggest change

A good sized rack of stoppers two sets of cams from .5-3.5" should do the trick.2ropes to rap off the 160+ foot first pitch. 50M ropes looked OK.