Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Steats
Page Views: 3,768 total · 27/month
Shared By: Buster Jesik on May 17, 2007 with updates from justino
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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104 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the obvious, chalked up off-finger splitter just right of top sirloin. Climb the splitter to a ledge (orange tcu). Continue up the narrowing crack using a bizarre horizontal lieback technique to another small ledge (yellow and blue tcu). Some corner changing and occasional face holds get you to the anchor (purple tcu, black alien).

Quinlin put the anchors on this, but Steve “Roadie” Steats got the FFA (on sight) out climbing with Q. and Friends

Location

Just left of top sirloin

Protection

Cams from orange tcu down to gray tcu, 2 – 3 of each size.

Photos

Brian Weinstein
  5.12-
Brian Weinstein  
  5.12-
To clarify, this route is to the right of top sirloin. It consists of a series of three splitter finger cracks, all varying in size. Sep 28, 2007
m-earle
USA
 
m-earle   USA
 
This route is abnormaly sporty for IC. The route is characterized by delicate moves on tight fingers linked by face holds. An exellent line... Nov 11, 2007
Christopher Hill
Charlottesville, VA
  5.11+
Christopher Hill   Charlottesville, VA
  5.11+
In my opinion, one of the most beautiful and pure fun routes around. Not typical plug-and-chug jamming or laybacking, but the finger locks are just stellar and there are a few spicy face moves to mix it up May 11, 2009
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.12-
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
  5.12-
Easily one of the most fun 12s I've been on at the Creek. Definitely not your pure Creek style splitter, though. Oct 7, 2012
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
Bouldery moves. I think I heel hooked three times! Super fun though and full of rests! Mar 24, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Very unique route for the Creek with some bouldery moves to good holds. Protects like a finger crack. Discontinuous but also quite fun! Oct 9, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
You won’t need anything smaller than a blue metolius. .3, and .4 sizes are nice to have triples of. Sep 23, 2018