Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, 4/06
Page Views: 5,631 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The plaque at the base of this thing is hard to read but it says "Low (unreadable) 5.10 4/06"

Start about 50ft. left of Samurai Loving in a slightly offset splitter offwidth. It's pretty consistent with a slightly wider spot at mid height. Rap from chain anchors.

Protection

one #4.5 for the start, then #5 camalots and #6 friends for the rest of the way.
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
'Low Cholesterol' Oct 25, 2006
chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
This is a beautiful wide crack. Thanks to whoever put the anchors in. My partner and I saw this thing last winter and wanted to put it up. This past weekend we were happily disappointed that someone put some anchors in.

I agree with the gear 4.5 down low, ever widening. I led this with 1 4.5, 1- 5 Camalot, 1- #6 Friend. I basically walked the pieces up in that succession. Oct 26, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
This one is pretty good if you like OW. Tape the left knee, elbow, and shoulder...
Big Bros are not so secure owing to the slight flare; use large cams instead. New style #5 and #6 are a good idea. The top gets slightly narrower than the middle again & the new style #5 Camalot is good. Mar 24, 2007
Javier Gonzalez
  5.10b PG13
Javier Gonzalez  
  5.10b PG13
I thought I put the fa last April2006. I put the bolts, but then it turned out that someone else had climbed before. A guy called Alex, from the monsteroffwidth.com. Sure it is a fun route!

javier Apr 4, 2007
JoergB
Germany
 
JoergB   Germany
 
Real ow fun and a good workout. My information was that Andres Marin did FA this. Oct 14, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Heel toe cams for days. Some stacks, lots of arm bars, some wings. So good, used a sling to switch sides as I burnt out. Old 5 , 2 new 5's and a 6. Oct 19, 2012
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
I'd say this is the best intro to IC wide climbing I've done. It was my first sandstone OW and I loved it so much I left blood from my ankles as thanks! I distinctly remember using (New BD) #5 for the start, #6 for the middle, and a #5 for the finish. A #6 gets jammed on the last 1/4 or so. Apr 23, 2013
Javier Gonzalez
  5.10b PG13
Javier Gonzalez  
  5.10b PG13
JoergB: Andres was there when we though we were putting the FA. He wanted to be the first, but he respectfully waited for his turn after us. Not that it matters, since Alex from the monsteroffwidth.com went a couple of years before, definitely before Andres.

In any case, Andres could climb this in his sleep. He is good at OW! Aug 3, 2013
Jon Appleberry
Yosemite, CA
 
Jon Appleberry   Yosemite, CA
 
Great #5 and #6 practice Apr 2, 2018