Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 3,561 total · 25/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it. Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances. Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right. This is the crux. Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.

Location

to the right, and around the corner from T-Bones/Tubesteaks area. twin splitters on either side of a pillar, up to a steep and eventually right leaning finger crack.

Protection

(camalot sizes) three .4, four .5, four .75, three 1, two 2. Maybe a runner or two for the transition around the starting pillar.

Photos

Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
  5.11+
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
  5.11+
This thing was originally rated 5.11+ and that was with boxy shoes and heavy cams. Jan 13, 2009
D-Storm
5.12-
D-Storm  
5.12-
Ignore the chains when they're dangling in your face! It's harder to clip them there than it is to bust out two more moves and reach the crispy jug just above. Apr 25, 2011
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
 
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
 
...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route! Oct 26, 2011