Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Greg Child - 1997
Page Views: 1,813 total · 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.

Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.

Protection

0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.12
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12
Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts; green alien for the right crack or blue alien/purple tcu for the left. Then a tricky sequence between the bolts leads to a long pull at the finish. Nov 9, 2010
Where's Walden
  5.12
Where's Walden  
  5.12
One bolt would have been fine. Grade is finger size dependent. May 6, 2016
Nate Sydnor   Moab
FA - Greg Child Nov 14, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun, unique feature. The moves on this are totally wild and the requisite technique is a little devious. Gear from 0.5 C4 to blue metolius/green alien works well. Oct 9, 2017