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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Idaho Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,312 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I'm giving it a star for two reasons:
1) Because if someone gave it a good brush down it might get one, and that would be easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor with Two Timer (10+) which is a good climb.
2) Because someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers might like it better.
But neither of those applied to me.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding "fun" once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ to me and not high quality.
"Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" have much nicer rock!

Location

This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.

Protection

Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad, bad feet, and the climb i credibly pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Sounds like it has cleaned up. Glad to hear that. Bloom and I apparently both thought it was dirty/loose by local standards back when we did it.
I also used to get cranky about my arthritis and finger cracks. Now I just avoid them, (can't even straighten a few fingers on my left hand) so problem solved and I don't get so cranky about it. Apr 25, 2017
lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
  5.12
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
  5.12
Oh my god, did climbing this route get sand in your hoo hah Tony? Geez... this was the worst route description ever. So, to everyone else that doesn't appreciate the lousy route post, this is an excellent finger crack to the left of two timer. It takes cams from thin hands to very tight fingers. A couple of offwidth bulges and flared jams make for a varied, sustained pitch. Better yet, TR the thing and have fun. Tony-- take a good long shower or soak in the tubs and get all the sand outta the dark places of your grumpy body for the love of cod. Apr 25, 2017
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
agreed that this line should be lead and does not deserve an R rating at all. maybe it cleaned up a lot since the original posts. take a good amount of .5 camalot size and a few green alien size (end) in addition to everything else. good climbing on splitter off fingers that taper to thin fingers by the end. Oct 24, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Went straight for the onsight lead...Didnt get it first try, but found the gear to be good the whole way, no reason for an R rating. Really fun pitch..Placing gear in the splitter is the crux.. No real stance for the whole top half, just plug and chug Oct 13, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
Like most, I've only toproped this line, and it was years ago. I definitely don't remember it being as bad as the description makes it out to be. Fun, hard fingers, and it felt right on at 12-. Dec 13, 2010
Ed L
Slowida
Ed L   Slowida
I agree. This is a great line. One of my favorite sections of splitter yellow alien/.4 BD anywhere. Just TR'd it and can't wait to lead it. I think the R part is the double crack down low where it may be hard to fish in the 2" piece and unsafe to place in the flake forming the hidden finger crack on the left wall. This one, along with Ninja Bedwetter, go in my personal 6 star section. Rough blue metolius crux into a fun face finish. What's not to love? Apr 29, 2010
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.12
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.12
if you are going to put up two timer you might as well t.r. two timer II. it is better than the describer makes it seem. i dont have big fingers just average size and the splitter was a great finger size. the feet are a bit licheney. but the more people that climb it the cleaner it gets. it also has a really fun face climbing sequence just before the chains. and if you wanted to lead this the rock is only really soft at the bottom where the climb is .10 or .10+. dont be scared to at least try it....remember the t.r. Jan 28, 2010