Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,029 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2022 Raptor Avoidance Areas! No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" after doing Two Timer (10+). It is certainly easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor.  It might be loads of fun for those with someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers, or a 50' skid -fest for those with small fingers. This one felt more like 12/12+ to me and not high quality at the time.  "Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" are cleaner and have much nicer rock!

Edit to add: I gave this route 1 star because at the time I did it, it was full of loose sand, a problem noted by the guidebook author at the time.  It has apparently cleaned up quite a bit and may deserve a better rating at this time - and consensus appears to reflect that.

Location

This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.

Protection

Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad feet, and the climb is very pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.

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