Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,512 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

I'm giving it a star for two reasons:
1) Because if someone gave it a good brush down it might get one, and that would be easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor with Two Timer (10+) which is a good climb.
2) Because someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers might like it better.
But neither of those applied to me.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding "fun" once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ to me and not high quality.
"Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" have much nicer rock!

Location

This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.

Protection

Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad, bad feet, and the climb i credibly pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.

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