Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,951 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ed L on Apr 29, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Easy fingers with feet to some runout face, bumping a #4, to a thin hands splitter which rolls over into a thinner hands corner up into a closed book, some more fingers, a stemmy roof and a tips and less than tips finish. Most excellent.

Location

Between Top Sirloin and Sesh One Cooking. Obvious splitter through some roofs. Uber-classic.

Protection

Solid banditos route. Bloom suggestion is adequate with the #4 camalot protecting the runout face section below the crux and a couple of blue metolius for the last 10 feet. (5) 1.5", and depending upon how the first 30 feet is protected between (3-5) .4 BD's and (3-5) .3 BD's. Throw in (3) #1 BD's, a couple of 1" pieces and a Gold for a nice pod up below the final roof.

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Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
This is hands down one of my favorite climbs at the creek. Long, varied, and interesting. That changing corners steep bit is tough! I'm pretty sure red camalots are over stuffed there, greens do better. Save a couple of blue metolious for the top. Apr 23, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11+
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11+
Such a rad climb! The face climbing down low is unprotected (don't even think about putting pro behind that block!) but casual.
For a comfy rack bring:
(4x) blue metolius
(4x) BD .4,
(2x) red alien/orange metolius,
(4x) BD .5,
(7x) BD .75
(4x) BD #1
(1x) BD# 2 & 3
optional #4 in pod after loose face climbing. Mar 30, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Save a few blue Metolius TCUs for the very top (or similar size). I used 4 up there. Mar 30, 2015
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.11+
Sofa King good! Nov 24, 2016