Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 4,870 total · 30/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

T-Bones takes the large left-facing corner just a little bit right from where the trail hits the wall. It's a beautiful layback & gradually widening hand crack up to a large, wonderful #3 Camalot roof.

Protection

An assortment of cams from wide fingers to hands, two cupped-hands pieces for the roof. No #4 Camalot necessary.

Photos

d-know
electric lady land
  5.12-
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12-
sweet roof. looks kinda intimidating, but isn't. Jan 26, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12-
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12-
It's true no #4 camalot is necessary, but it can be placed at the lip of the roof from great handjams if desired. I placed everything from .5-#3 camalots and a #4camalot over the roof. Oct 23, 2006
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Recommend 3 blue Camalots for the finish. Oct 19, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Steve Hong FA? I recall one of the hangers having the 'SH' stamp on it. Dec 10, 2010
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
A fun route no doubt. No way this is 12-. It's like an easier version of King Cat. If king Cat is 11+ then this is 11. Oct 1, 2013
Re: the comparison with King Cat. I did this route yesterday and King Cat a couple of weeks ago. This is, you know, just like, my opinion, man, but I found this harder than King Cat. The roof on KC is harder but I felt like getting to the roof is harder on T-Bones. Your mileage may vary, and all that.

Edit: there were a couple of carabiners on the anchor that were in pretty bad shape (about halfway worn through). The party who did this right before us replaced one and I replaced the other with a small locker. Oct 21, 2014
Moritz B.  
 
The start is a little sketchy, watch what you place your feet on.
My jamming technique sucks, so I had to layback large sections of the dihedral. Is this normal or do people finesse and jam their way up this dihedral?
#4 is nice to have but not a must. Great route! Nov 4, 2015
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
fa: steve hong Apr 12, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Another great Steve Hong route. I layback the 0.5s into the #4 pod and then jam the rest. Lots of very thin hands and tight hands leads to good and then cuppy hands. No tape helps for the super thin hands. A #3 friend and a couple #3 C4s are plenty to protect the roof. Chains currently have lower-off biners. Oct 9, 2017
Scott E
 
Scott E  
 
My friend couldn't get a #3 out of the roof and we ran out of light before I could go get it. If you get this piece and want to return it, I will trade you beer or cash for it May 14, 2018