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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall
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At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bro Shoe Dough T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Butcher's Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flank Steak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Frozen Meat Curtains T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hot Pork Sunday T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kelley Route #53 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kelley Route #54 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelley Route #56 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Meat Hucker, (AKA:Idaho Flake) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Micah Dash Memorial Choss Pile T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No more meatloaf T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Oscar Mayer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Samarai Loving T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Swedish Meat Balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sweetbread T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.1302, -109.5862 |
| FA: | Nate Sydnor and Herb Crimp - FFA Nate Sydnor, Gaar Lausman and Paul Nelson |
| Page Views: | 1,364 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on May 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
I looked at this thing for five years and finally got to it on the same day we did Flank Steak. Herb courageously led the first bush-and-sand pitch on-sight, drilled the belay bolt and it was game on. I got the top anchor in after some 5.10 C1 effort and we got to TR it just long enough to whet our appetites. After two more tries, on a random smash-and-grab day I was able to free it. Many thanks to Herb, Ed and Gaar for going down with me to climb on this amazing addition. This thing is incredible. I chose the name because I don't fully understand sweetbreads. They're supposed to be a delicacy but they seem disgusting in theory. At first glance from the ground the pillar guarding the real climb may look repulsive, but if you can stomach that (actually good in its own way), you're rewarded by yet another one of the great culinary masterpieces at this wall.
It starts off with the reason it hasn't been done. This pitch is only about 30ft to the ledge, where you'll find a belay bolt that can be equalized with a BD .2 or a blue Alien or comparable. The main event lies above.
The pitch starts off with what is likely 5.11 less-than-tips in a slab of wavy, featured rock that then turns into the classic 2nd Meat Wall amazing black varnish. After the initial section, a tips or slightly-less-than boulder problem leads to a brief change of corners and then about 50ft of perfect purple Camalots in the left-facing corner to the chains. There are fortuitous rests in the upper section that keep it from being as hard as something like End of The Line, but it's similar in style albeit shorter. Enduro fat fingers in amazing stone. The rock on this pitch is of the highest quality, and it's got a great blend of styles. There is some lichen, but in my opinion it doesn't detract one iota from the quality of the climb. Dust your feet off on your cuffs for the first section.
Location
Far left side of the cliff, just before you go around to Hot Pork Sundae. Look up at the choss pillar and you'll see the belay bolt and then the amazing pitch above it. There is a thin crack on the right side of the pillar that offers reliable small gear but you'll have to get through a bush or two and some sand to get there. I think it adds to the experience.
Protection
All types of it. For the initial section of the real pitch I took at least 6-8 pieces in the blue Alien/purple TCU/green c3 range. Then you'll need some tips pieces for the roof boulder problem. I used two green Aliens. Add in a BD .4 and maybe 6-8 BD .5 or the like and you're there. There are nice chains with rings. A 70m rope gets you back to the ledge easily and will get the leader to the ground if you lower to the end of the rope, but you will need about 50 more feet of tagline or the like to do the mega TR, which we found to be the best approach. An 80m rope would also likely reach the ground with both ends from the anchor. Have fun with the shenanigans and make sure to give the rope a good rodeo flip when pulling it down, lest you get it stuck on the ledge like a noob.
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