Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||unknown, April 1994|
|Page Views:||1,417 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 23, 2006|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Previously (4/24/19): please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Start off on an ultra-thin corner with a thin crack (Lowe balls) and a skinny tower to the right. step off the tower when it is reduced to a stack of wobbling toaster-oven sized blocks and commit to a finger-tips lieback on a thin flake of soft rock with questionable small- cam placements to go up to a better stance. Start groveling up the inconsistent crack in a broken-looking notch/corner. This is followed through some poor jams in some dry-mud-caked rock with flares and poor gear. Continue past a small roof on bad jams in dirt with slick (dusty) feet on nothing. Don't fall when the few remaining footholds break off from under you.
Finally, place a #4 camalot and pull into a right-facing corner up top where good rock and good gear take you up the only 40' of rock in 110' worth climbing.
The last poor fool to do this route about 'Met Jesus' on his way down! The anchors when I arrived were terrible. A 1/2-cut 1" sling on a single bolt and a 9/16" sling on pinched behind a washer (no hanger) on an angled bolt. The 9/16" was burned more than 1/2 way through by someone lowering after threading it and was melted and burned black on the remaining amount (perhaps 3/16"). It was so crispy that it had to be cut from behind the washer to get it off. Both slings were bleached completely white.
The washer was spaced perfectly to pop in some 8mm cord behind it (I did) and I re-threaded the bolt as well with some newer webbing. There is now a locking biner and an oval up top.
If some poor bastard actually ever does the route again, at least he'll have an anchor to retreat from instead of "Meeting Jesus" up there.
This route gives both you and your belayer ample opportunity to Meet Jesus in a post-biblical sense. Make sure nobody is handing round at the base and that your belayer is crouched behind something with a helmet on.