Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 2,899 total · 24/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

As Bloom says in his guidebook, "Off-fingers laybacking forever!"

This is the gorgeous varnished right-facing corner with anchors way up in the heavens. No moves harder than 5.10!

Protection

A few 0.4 Camalots, a #3 and a #4 Camalot for the OW, and all the 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots you can find. 15 or more wouldn't go unused. Two ropes.

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A little hint: save a couple .5 camalots (even a .4) for the end. Don't feel too bad if you blow the onsite at the chains- you will join a long list of good climbers before you. Dec 2, 2011
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
One of the cleanest looking corners I've seen. Not much into longer routes usually, but I think I'd make an exception for this. Oct 18, 2012
43 meters tops. Has been top roped with an 80 meter rope May 12, 2014
Moritz B.  
 
An 80m rope was not long enough for us. Also bring more blue c4s than green c4s. It´s mostly purple camalots. Dec 1, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12-
Having just climbed this I wanted to provide some additional gear beta for anyone that doesn't want to carry everything including the kitchen sink. I also added more gear than what I actually placed so hopefully no one will feel sandbagged by this rack recommendation.

All the gear listed is referring to Camalots unless otherwise noted.

(1).3, (4).4, (2)Gray Aliens, (9).5, (5).75, (1)#4.

This route stays very clean even without a lot of traffic, so get on it! Sep 16, 2015
t.schwartz  
 
Great route! Looks like Hong ran out of rope...it could keep going for another 30 feet Mar 25, 2017