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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Idaho Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 4,811 total, 34/month
Shared By: SirVato on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts in a left facing corner near the far left side of 2nd Meat Wall. It is one of the "cleaner" routes we found on this somewhat obscure wall. Start off climbing a pedestal via easy OW moves to the base of the beautiful crack.
Good hands and a parallel crack(seam) to the left, leads to a small roof. Crank through the roof (perfect hands #2 camalot) to another smaller roof. Turn the roof (you can get a .75 camalot before you commit) and enter a sweeet layback section after which, you get a great rest on a small ledge. Pull through yet another roof (#2 camalots) and top out at the chains (#1 before the chains)

Location

From the trail, head left at the base of the cliff all the way around, till you get to a large left facing alcove. "Pastafarian" 5.12 is just right of this route and is easily identified by two bolts on the face near the top.

Protection

Camalots:
1- .75 (just before the laybacks)
1- #1 (just before the chains)
4- #2
4- #3
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10
I thought this crack was better than the Incredible Hand Crack. More varied and just fun. 70M brings you to the ground Nov 5, 2017
jomey
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10
jomey   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10
Two BD #0.75 make the layback a breeze. Apr 7, 2015
JVW
JVW  
I found the first 12 feet through the bulge to be wide-ish hands, #3 camalots for sure, felt this was definitely the crux, after the short lie back section this is dreamy gold camalots, nice long warmup for sure Oct 13, 2012
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Cool route, more physical and not so technical. Also, tying knots in the end of the rope is a good habit to get into. Every time. Every route. If you're going to get injured, do it whilst climbing, not lowering. Apr 24, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Good, easy warmup. Fun climbing with good rests the whole way. Needs a 70m rope. Apr 29, 2009
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
word on the street is that there was another accident on this route (lowered off the end of the rope) over thanksgiving. sounds like the dude got pretty jacked up. second time in about 3 months. be careful and pay attention. Dec 13, 2007
I second the above comment. This route is longer than the 100 feet stated in Bloom's guidebook. I couldn't reach the ground on my 60 m rope, but my friend who is 40 lb heavier could (just). Unless you have a stretchy 60m and weight in at above 200 lb, use a 70 m line or downclimb a few meter of 5.7 climbing. Dec 12, 2007
Dpurf
Superior
  5.10
Dpurf   Superior
  5.10
A 70m rope gets you to the ground. 60m will not. Use the seam, it makes it easier. Fun climb. If you are looking for shade, this is the place. Apr 30, 2007
Might want to bring two extra runners for a couple #3 placements before the layback section. Nice line. Mar 16, 2007