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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Idaho Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,467 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade. The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.

Location

This climb is on the left side of the 2nd Meat Wall, just turned around a corner from the main face, left of Tofu Crack, which is left of Top Sirloin. It is the crack system in a HUGE, shaded, left-facing corner.

Protection

Rack of cams to 3", heavy on the 2-2.5".

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d
This is a long, sustained and pumpy pitch! It's a stout warm-up or cool-down for sure. Heed the advice of others on this site, as I did not, and save a .75 for up high. If you don't, it will be a rather exciting and pumpy finish! Oct 9, 2017
David Crockett
Chattanooga, TN
 
David Crockett   Chattanooga, TN
 
Climbed this today. I thought it was an awesome and overlooked 3 star classic! Lot's of sinker hand jams on this one.

Heads up:
- Latest Bloom Guidebook (3rd edition) has the wrong gear. Suggested rack in Camelots: #0.75 x2, #1 x6, #2 x5, #3 x2
- The last 12 feet protects with a Green Camelot only. Save a 0.75 for the top out!
- The cover photo features a different climb. Go to the huge corner left of Evening Ecstasy (9+). The climb ascends an obvious large left facing corner.
- Route is 110 feet and probably requires a 70 meter rope.

More Beta:
Climb an awkward flake onto a pillar for about 20 feet. The splitter starts at the base of the pillar. 12 feet of tight hands (#1s), then opens up to a long section of perfect dreamy magical sustained hands (#2s, some #3s), then tapers to tight hands with many small ledges to stem, crimp, and rest on. The finish is a glorious 0.75 layback to the chains. Nov 27, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
beta that may be helpful: save BD .75 for the top out. May 7, 2014
J. Hickok  
 
Walk left from the "Mouse Meat" area of the wall to a large left facing very shady corner. This is Two Timer. Two Timer II is the obvious crack that goes splitter fingers high on the wall and shares anchors. The photo here is incorrect as of 8/23/2012, go left from the Mouse Meat/Tofu Crack area to find this route Aug 23, 2012
Agreed that the photos are wrong and the description is correct. Two Timer is an excellent LF corner with a little bit of loose rock down low and then enduro steep jamming through bulges. Dpurf's gear beta is not for Two Timer either. Apr 2, 2012
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
tony's description sounds correct, but dpurf's photos look like they are for smell the meat. Mar 19, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
i put the anchor on this route and posted it as "Smell the Meat .10" . just wondering why its on here as "two timer" ? ...and it is in the new book. Mar 19, 2010
Dpurf
Superior
  5.10
Dpurf   Superior
  5.10
I am not sure I would go heavy on the 2 2.5. You are going to need more 3" then 2" stuff. Also at lease one if 2 BD #5 comes in handy on the ow flake. The #4 tips out. This is what I would take if I do it again. 2 .75 BD, 3 #2 BD, 4 #3 BD, 1 #4 WC and 2 #5 BD. And I believe it take all of a 60m rope. 70 would be better. Apr 30, 2007