Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 11,085 total · 54/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Mar 21, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


189 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Top Sirloin is a very clean left-facing corner of amazing uniformity, plaqued, to the left of Tube Steaks etc. which are at the top of the trail. It's all about thin hands in a corner. My large-handed buddy found the crux to be about 40 feet up in a shallow flare where he found it necessary to pull on a couple of #2 Friends; I was able to free this while placing red camalots (hence the 'optional' #2 F's). A 60m rope was barely workable.

Protection

8-10 red (#1) Camalots and #2.5 Friends; 2 #2 Friends (optional); 1 4" piece for the bottom.
12-13 red camalots may be overdoing it. You can get by with 8-10, and as I remember there was even a place for a gold or two. This is one of the best corners at the creek. Sep 21, 2005
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11
good thin hands the whole way. Jan 26, 2006
Hayduke Cloud
Denver, CO
Hayduke Cloud   Denver, CO
This is a must-do on a cliff that has quite a few outstanding climbs. No trickery on this climb, just be ready for red-camalot sized jams from start to finish. Towards the top it kicks back and pods out to where there are some good hands. Jun 20, 2006
misterclimberman  
  5.11
bad ass route on a bad ass wall. Sep 4, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Go for it between pods and stems! Smaller hands are helpful. Harder than Blue Gramma and other climbs at the grade. Mar 19, 2007
Dpurf
Superior
  5.11+
Dpurf   Superior
  5.11+
What a great climb and the one thing that kept going through my head was 'This crack is going to get bigger up there, it's got to'. But it never does. Thin Hands forever. Apr 30, 2007
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
Alf called it "The Red Camalot Excursion." I'd say that's fair. Apr 24, 2008
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.11+
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.11+
If you have a normal hand size, this corner is really hard. One of the bulges felt like I was trying to stuff my hand in the crack, but obviously it was never going to fit. The top gets easier when it is not as steep anymore. Probably the hardest 5.11 I have tried with my hand size.

I have a friend go at this route on TR and her hands fit perfectly in thin hand cracks. She is already a good climber, but she thought that "Top Sirloin" was almost a perfect hand crack for her.

The crack reminds me of the "black corner", which I also thought was really hard, but "Top Sirloin" is much harder and longer. Aug 9, 2011
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Harder for big hands for sure.. Mar 24, 2013
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Guide says 100 feet, not correct also Not 130ft as in description above -about 110 or 115', 70m rope is great. A few #2 and about 7# 1, if you have something in-between 1 and 2 Camelot, will find good spots.

Burley steep almost overhang tight hand crack forever Apr 26, 2014
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Gear Beta (If you don't have twelve #1s):
I placed a purple C4 as my first piece. It went in a crack within the crack just before the good feet end and you have to start crack climbing. It was bomber. After that I placed one really crappy black Metolious, eight #1s and two #2s. I think I could've easily swapped out one other 1 for a 2. Bottom line: I think this climb could safely be done with one .5, seven or eight 1s, and three or four 2s. Apr 7, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Steve Hong put up the best routes at the Creek. Can you imagine a more perfect #1 corner than Top Sirloin? If your hands are larger than #1 size, I don't recommend tape. Oct 9, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
You can bring #2s for the second half if you are short on #1. Sep 23, 2018