Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,954 total · 34/month
Shared By: Max schon on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Stellar route with difficult moves between good rests. Steep hands lead to angling off fingers and a switch around a pillar. Small nuts and a .00 TCU help protect a few faces moves up to a rest. Fire the crux off-fingers splitter which barely widens to thin hands at the top. Relish how fun the route was.

Location

Right of Cube Steaks

Protection

small nuts; 1x .00 TCU; a couple blue and yellow TCU; 4x 1"; six .75 Camalots; two #2 Friends; a couple hand pieces

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This is my favorite route on 2nd Meat Wall. It has great variety and climbs an amazing and challenging splitter on tough sizes. Despite the thin "face" section it still protects well and seemed very safe to me. As per typical IC, this is a five star route which few have ever heard of. It should be considered one of the classics for the grade.
Don't be mislead by the route description. Once you commit to the layback/fingerstacks, the next rest is a long ways up and after climbing some real tough sizes. May 27, 2007
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12
I loved this route, I hope to go back and send. I thought that the pro in the middle "face-y" section kinda sucked, all I got was a bad 000 c3 and a very small brass nut, without much of a constriction. I wouldn't be surprised if both pieces ripped considering the soft rock. That being said, it's only one fairly easy (10a?) move up to where the crack widens out and will take a green alien. If you've got a good shot at sending the route, the sketchy section shouldn't phase you. Jan 7, 2009
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
In the facey section I got a ok nut in, nothing to protect me from a reasonble whipper but good enough to let me get a tight but GOOD purple (00) BD C3 and then a foot later a beautiful green (0)BD C3. I also thought that I'd finish the route at the top on only 0.75 BD C4's but I was glad to have a red (1.0) BD C4 for the end. Oct 24, 2011
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
 
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
 
A quality route, with engaging and challenging climbing. Good rests keep it from being too sustained. But some heady moves keep your attention. You really don't want to fall once embarking on the "banana splitter" down low, at least until you're well established in the flare after the banana. And, once you leave the ledge, it's again "no fall territory" until you're 15ish feet above the ledge. You can get in some marginal gear, but calm and techy climbing provide better protection than your gear. Once in the final splitter you could take a good clean 50 footer and be fine. Just keep it together till you're out of the stacks! Sep 30, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12
A bomber blue Alien and or .2 Camalot (I place both) protect the middle face section just fine. I just climb up a couple feet off the ledge, place and clip the gear and then climb back down to rest. If your short the gear placements might be hard to reach. Nov 1, 2012
john collis   Moab
FA Steve Hong. Current anchor has shiny ASCA bolts but original Hong anchors are still there just to look cool. Oct 24, 2016