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Camping Under the Influence

5.12-, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 43 votes
FA: ???
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it. Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances. Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right. This is the crux. Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.

Location

to the right, and around the corner from T-Bones/Tubesteaks area. twin splitters on either side of a pillar, up to a steep and eventually right leaning finger crack.

Protection

(camalot sizes) three .4, four .5, four .75, three 1, two 2. Maybe a runner or two for the transition around the starting pillar.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steven sending
[Hide Photo] Steven sending
Samson keeping watch in front of "Camping under the influence"
[Hide Photo] Samson keeping watch in front of "Camping under the influence"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This thing was originally rated 5.11+ and that was with boxy shoes and heavy cams. Jan 13, 2009
Derek F
Carbondale, CO
5.12-
[Hide Comment] Ignore the chains when they're dangling in your face! It's harder to clip them there than it is to bust out two more moves and reach the crispy jug just above. Apr 25, 2011
Alex Shainman
Lakewood, CO
 
[Hide Comment] ...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route! Oct 26, 2011
Alex Randolph
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] My favorite route on the cliff! Go heavy .4-.75. Good footwork will reward you throughout this excellent climb. Apr 28, 2019