Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Rick Piggott
Page Views: 5,034 total · 32/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Lie Detector is the perfect finger crack you can see as you walk up the road. The climb starts out overhanging and backs off to 5.10 above the slopeing ledge 15 feet off the ground. This climb is often done as an aid route.

Protection

Use small nuts and cams on bottom of climb up to a #1 as you get higher. Bolt anchor and rap rings on top of rock
Adam Stackhouse

  5.12a/b C1
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.12a/b C1
As I recall, the face to right of the upper crack portion of Lie Detector went pretty easily at about 5.10- (via TR) Feb 12, 2006
I'm pretty sure that Rick Piggot did the first ascent. Mar 11, 2006
Stein Lundby  
 
Great looking crack, lousy climb.
Starts with a few feet of very painful finger-tip crack climbing, then the climb immediately becomes trivial. Sep 8, 2009
dtomczik
Bishop, CA
  5.12a C1
dtomczik   Bishop, CA
  5.12a C1
Fun crux moves, but do avoid the upper crack after sunset May 11, 2010
Josh Beck
  5.12d C1
Josh Beck  
  5.12d C1
Agree that it looks better than it climbs. Really painful and difficult move or two off the ground then it's over. Jul 24, 2018
AJ
 
AJ  
 
I gotta disagree. One of Mount Woodson’s best and most fun climbs IMHO. Awesome tips sequence down low to beautiful jamming up high. Sweeeet.

I talked to Bob van Belle (RIP) about the Lie Detector before he passed away last year. I was curious about the story behind the name, and whether it had been intentionally pinned out with an eye toward free climbing. According to BVB, definitely not, just another aid line that went free as standards progressed. He also said Rick Piggott got the FFA.

Here is a video I made last year of this classic: youtube.com/watch?v=1P__SAM… Oct 2, 2018