Finger Lockin' Good
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 162 votes
Routes in T-Wall East
A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gravity Creeps T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
My Lost China Doll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Riddle on the Roof T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Seal Test T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Type: | Trad, 90 ft |
FA: | Rob Robinson, Jay Dautcher - 1985 |
Page Views: | 10,265 total · 71/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Mekolites on Dec 1, 2006 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
A classic amongst classics.
If you love finger cracks don't pass this one up. Crank a couple of burly moves, off the deck, to get up to a slight ledge. Continue following the jagged finger crack using smears on either side for feet to another rest. Fire past the crux and up to a ledge. Now face climb up to and past a cave to the anchors.
Bask in your glory. You are the man/woman.
If you love finger cracks don't pass this one up. Crank a couple of burly moves, off the deck, to get up to a slight ledge. Continue following the jagged finger crack using smears on either side for feet to another rest. Fire past the crux and up to a ledge. Now face climb up to and past a cave to the anchors.
Bask in your glory. You are the man/woman.
Decatur, GA
Arvada
Around Boulder, CO
If someone were to cut those slings out of the cave, we'd have a real classic on our hands here. After all, how many other routes on 90' cliffs end arbitrarily just because someone found a thread? Jan 18, 2007
Wymont Kingdom
Chattanooga, TN
ATL GA
You can still bail to anchors on the right at the cave, but the face climbing at the top is fun. It's a wholly different type of challenge and an exciting one on lead: the gear is there, but far less obvious. The finger crack is near-perfect. Feb 15, 2011
Just left of the bottom of the Hueco are solid placements for a purple Mastercam and a medium nut. It might not be a bad idea to place both since I believe you're above thin gear at that point. 10'-12' higher up is a horizontal that takes a perfect .5 bd and that was my last piece before the anchors. The upper section is about 5.9 face climbing and was a little bit dirty but still highly recommended. Oct 13, 2014
Have fun!
Jim Mar 24, 2016