Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Jay Dautcher - 1985
Page Views: 10,682 total · 72/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 1, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


169 Opinions

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Description

A classic amongst classics.

If you love finger cracks don't pass this one up. Crank a couple of burly moves, off the deck, to get up to a slight ledge. Continue following the jagged finger crack using smears on either side for feet to another rest. Fire past the crux and up to a ledge. Now face climb up to and past a cave to the anchors.

Bask in your glory. You are the man/woman.

Location

At the beautiful finger crack just to the left of Jay Walker. You can't miss it...

Protection

You can get away with just finger sized cams on this...maybe two sets if you want to sew it up. This route eats up green, yellow and red aliens. Leave the slings and nuts. Rap anchors at the top.

Photos

This pitch's popularity belies the 1-star rating as do the three stars (out of three) the guidebook gives it. It's not very long, but it is a sweet crack and for the TWall, a soft touch for the grade. Dec 1, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
David G. is right, my personal star rating was unfairly skewed by the fact that my technique is just not up to this route! I've bumped it to two stars and also noted that the Cragger gives it a three-star rating. Dec 2, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
If it were longer this route would be four stars. Perfect finger locks and great gear. I thought that there were good rests (for a 10b finger crack) for placing pro. I would suggest bringing some very small wires for the top section, the climbing eases but the pro gets thin. Dec 30, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
In 1992 I dislocated a finger on this route. Fingerlocking on good pods, I stepped up high and reached for the next lock. My foot cut from the smear and I was downward bound. Rather than pull my fingers and take a fall on my gear, I instinctively tried to hold on. Silly me. The finger-locks did hold, but when my center of gravity had dropped 3 feet onto two knuckles it was more than they could bear. Jan 1, 2007
Rob Dillon  
 
Ouch! That's one of my reals fears about crack climbing ( along with peeling with my foot stuck).

If someone were to cut those slings out of the cave, we'd have a real classic on our hands here. After all, how many other routes on 90' cliffs end arbitrarily just because someone found a thread? Jan 18, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10b
Has anyone actually done the finish? The book says to stay on the face, but there's also a dihedral right above the crack... Mar 5, 2007
426
426  
There are new anchors at the very top of the cliff now... Mar 8, 2007
Jay Perry
Chattanooga, TN
Jay Perry   Chattanooga, TN
Bailing at those slings is definitely weak sauce, the top part is fun! Apr 4, 2007
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.10c
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.10c
Y'all can stop complaining and worrying...the slings are gone. There are now a set of rap rings a little ways above them. As was mentioned... Dec 4, 2007
Marne Z
 
Marne Z  
 
Absolutely fantastic.
You can still bail to anchors on the right at the cave, but the face climbing at the top is fun. It's a wholly different type of challenge and an exciting one on lead: the gear is there, but far less obvious. The finger crack is near-perfect. Feb 15, 2011
Cpn Dunsel  
 
Four stars when done to the top. Mar 19, 2011
runout  
I can't tell how to finish this route. Once you finish the bottom finger crack and get to the small ledge, there is lots of chalk going to the right and through the unprotected face and ends at Jay Walker anchors . The face is easy (~5.9) but is unprotectable and is about 15-20 feet in length. However, Rob Robinson's book says to go up and to the left, but it looked mossy and I wasn't sure how to climb through the dihedral safely because there wasn't anywhere to put pro. Oct 15, 2013
Go left out of the hueco and straight up. Make sure you have good gear in/around the hueco, as you go about 10' before you find a worthwhile .75 C4 in a horizontal. Then pull some more edges to the anchors. Nov 8, 2013
Gable
 
Gable  
 
Gear beta for the upper face.

Just left of the bottom of the Hueco are solid placements for a purple Mastercam and a medium nut. It might not be a bad idea to place both since I believe you're above thin gear at that point. 10'-12' higher up is a horizontal that takes a perfect .5 bd and that was my last piece before the anchors. The upper section is about 5.9 face climbing and was a little bit dirty but still highly recommended. Oct 13, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.10b/c
Michael Dom  
  5.10b/c
As you leave the hueco you can slide a micro in. It removes the run out aspect. Dec 22, 2015
James Dowdy
  5.10a
James Dowdy  
  5.10a
Beautiful route - still, it's closer to 10a...and, I *never* downgrade Rob's routes!

Have fun!

Jim Mar 24, 2016