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Routes in T-Wall East

A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Plan , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seal Test T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Joe ?, March 1995.
Page Views: 1,444 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A good route, a harder finish to a classic line, complete with hard moves and runout. Be careful of my proposed grade. I do not know in fact how hard the line will be in all. I rated it only for its moves, not sustenance.
It has just been affirmed by some locals (Chris Watford & John Liles) that this was a probable F.A. and likely still unrepeated.

The following was a description I wrote in 1995 and just recently found again with Google:

"I got up Sunday morning just before sunrise and cooked some oatmeal before heading up the hill. I was up there by 8am, and climbing. I hooked up with Joe, a guy who was also alone that day, at least until his pal showed up in the afternoon. Joe is a guide and instructor for a local climbing school, and knows Twall pretty well. Joe asked what routes I did the day previous to figure out what I climbed like, so he could choose some good lines for us to do. I mentioned doing "A nastily runout 5.10+ that seemed to be more like a 5.11 to me" Joe said "Was it called MEAN CUISINE?" Apparently the route has a reputation...

Joe and I warmed up on the moderate, yet sustained "PASSAGES (5.8)". It is a **** lovely route, about 130' tall, a must-do. Joe cruised up behind and we rapped off. I spent some time doing some boudering and snagging a few routes before Joe and I decided to do a 5.10a dihedral called "Margin Of Profit" that I'd heard about. I and Joe located it and I quickly jammed up past the first roof, then up to the second roof about 80' or 90' off of the deck. Several people had said something about heading left out of the dihedral, and there was a big horizontal. I placed a few pieces under the roof and looked both left and right. I was getting pumped, so I hastily went left, as I thought I had been advised. Well, as I heel-hooked up and around the arete on which I had arrived I pulled myself to a spread-legged sitting position on the 8 inch ledge/corner and yelled "I must be in the front Row!" A few people looked up and said that I was off route, and that I should have gone right. Standing on the ledge and looking over, I realized that they were right. There the big holds were! I was too pumped to get back down the roof, so I paced a blind nut or two and started strait up. One person yelled "Hey, it's a new route." I responded (20' above my last piece, feeling pumped and on 5.10 moves) "I'll call it 'Margin of Error' if I live.

After about another 10' I got a good piece, and ran another 20' to the top. It was an awesome route, about 130-140' or more in total height. Joe trailed his rope and started up. About 10 falls later he started talking about it being a bit difficult. At the top (20 falls later?) he looked at me with saucer sized eyes and said "That was a stout lead." I looked at him and responded: "Thaths whffath I Wath Sthfinking!" My mouth was still a little to dry to talk correctly...

John Cioci (my usual climbing partner) had arrived to see the latter half of the adventure, and pulled and coiled the ropes while I booted and packed up. We hiked out and started the drive back, my head still abuzz. It would have been my last route of the day whether or not John showed up. I'd had my fun, and the week's climbing had worn on my body."

click to read the full 1995 trip report

Location

Start as for Margin Of Profit, but stay left of the arete and tend left under roofs for the final 10 meters, approaching the route 'Sun King.'

Protection

The rack is as for Margin Of Profit plus a few nuts to finish up high. It is a little runout, but there is not much to hit in the event of a fall.

Photos

- No Photos -
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
While I can not say what I had done early on, Once I left the "perch" that straddles the arete in the photos on the Margin Of Profit page, I stayed left. I stood momentarily on a ledge with a tuft of grass which can also be seen in the photo, just left of where I had sat for rest. I headed up the face on the left side of the arete into a horizontal below a small roof into the shallow left facing corner, left again under the small roof, and to another left facing corner, then up and out of that over the last roof and to the top of the cliff. I placed a cam in one of the horizontals along the way and then was out of properly-sized gear. I believe I recall the cam being a Orange HB, which is a #3. I do remember that I had just one cam left and I was for want of a nearby size, smaller or larger.
I can not swear to 100% accuracy of that particular memory after so much time though. So save some hand-to-fist sized cams for up there. I do distinctly recall people telling me I had been quite off route for some time, so I may have spent time below said perch on the wrong side of the arete as well.

Good luck, and let me know how it goes! I'd not had a rest day in a week or more and had gotten on some tough lines (flailed) like Skinner's 'Oregon Message' and so I was generally worn and done. It might be easier or harder than the grade I had guessed at. Jan 3, 2009
Stone Brew
Chattanooga, TN
Stone Brew   Chattanooga, TN
Tony, I know it was a while back, but do you recall if you stayed on the arete, on its left side? There is some stout face climbing up form the Margin of Profit midpoint ledge, but then any movement left above puts you at a no hands ledge, too tempting to avoid. The next sunny day I will give it a go. Hang tough and look us up next time you are in the south, david Jan 3, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
David,
Thanks for the comment. This was posted with the intent of gaining more claritifation, and over time, some light has come to it. Perhaps these clues will help.

YOu are potentially correct with respect to some of this. I may have started on Hidden Assets rather than Margin of Profit. At some point however, I was on Margin of profit, seated on the arete notch seen in this image, a short distance below the climber:

mountainproject.com/v/tenne…

From there I went up and left into the series of roofs stepping up and further left to the top, but not so far over to the vertical wide crack/corner which is also seen in the picture referenced above. I believe that is what you call the bail-out of Sun King.

A few things that may influence the description- the seminal climbing here that seemed to be new was from the arete up and left- that is what stuck in my head and what is ostensibly a new finish. Maybe it isn't. For lack of a better term, I would call any blocky overhang a roof, even if the protrusion was only a foot or two. Similarly, I would call any small 2-faceted featue on a face a dihedral. for lack of better terms. These may not qualify for the monikers I have assigned them in others minds. Perhaps that is the difference between my description and what you have observed- or maybe by the time I wrote the TR, the week after the climb, I got soem details mixed up.

There is, however, more discussion of the position of the climb over on the page for Margin Of Profit:

mountainproject.com/v/tenne…

Perhaps you might read more and help me determine the nature of the beast. The first respondants to this by Email were the book author and a few locals who suggested that this was indeed a probably FA of an alternate finish, probably bearing in mind that 14 years ago, things had not exactly been "climbed out" yet.

Any contribution you might have towards clarification would be great. Thanks again. Jan 3, 2009
Stone Brew
Chattanooga, TN
Stone Brew   Chattanooga, TN
I am not sure where to start with this. The climber says he started on Margin of profit, but mentions jamming up past a roof. There is no roof on Margin of profit. He then mentions jamming up the dihedral and past a second roof. There is no dihedral, or second roof, on Margin of profit. The description matches the start of Hidden assets, except for where he mentions, the second roof, which there is none on Hidden asssets. Hidden assets, however, does have a horizontal crack heading to the arete before the crux. If you follow this, about 6 to 8 ft, you end up on Margin of profit. Confused yet? From here he says he trended left under roofs and ended up near Sun King. If this is the case, then he probably climbed the wide crack/corner to the right of the Sun King finish, which has been climbed many times by people trying to avoid the crux of Sun King. From the description given, the climber climbed 60 ft of Hidden Assets, crossed to Margin of Profit, then did the bailout finish for Sun King. I am always interested in new routes at my home crags, so I am posting this for clarification only. Jan 2, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Anyone else ever done this line? Jan 13, 2008