Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers, and Marvin Webb, 1985
Page Views: 4,931 total · 37/month
Shared By: andjoely on Jan 18, 2008 with updates from Alex Randolph
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

You've heard about the great face climbs, splitters and roofs that T-wall has to offer. Why not get all three in one superb, well-protected route?

Begin with steep, easy face moves, protected by gear in the horizontals. Rest up before the roof then blast through the well-protected crux sequence. A variety of sequences and opportunities for pro are available for the choosing. After the tenuous series of movements through the crux, ascend the hand/finger crack. Avoid the temptation to clip a bolt on the adjacent route, as the crack peters out into a face climbing crux (somewhere in the neighborhood of 5.10). Opportunities for good pro are available, yet spaced enough to make the run to the chains exciting. 

Protection

Slings. Nuts. Cams .3-#4. Heavy .4-#1 camalot.

Photos

426
  5.12a
426  
  5.12a
(Warning: spoiler)...Take a wide variety of gear for the arm blowing crack at the top and beware of a solid crimpy face move at about 3/4's height (might be another way to do it...?) Weird bouldery crux moves at the bottom, many ways to sequence, so look around!

They fixed the anchors recently. Thanks! Apr 13, 2008
yevquest
Southeast,US
  5.12a
yevquest   Southeast,US
  5.12a
I don't remember any crimping before the crack ends at the ledge most of the way up. I do remember a spot where the feet were bad and the locks thin, maybe that's the crimp spot. Fantastic route. Feb 9, 2009
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12-
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12-
this is further beta spew, but I believe I bypassed the crimping section (just below the ledge), by moving left on some slopers to a really good jug. It looked like I missed a few good finger locks, but it was nice to get the respite after the crux an the pumpy crack. Really cool route. Dec 30, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Great route. I agree that this line is perfect for those breaking into the grade. And for crimping: I crimped a lot on the upper face crux. That upper crux wasn't hard in comparison to the bottom crux (maybe 10d), but it's hard enough that it keeps your attention. Jan 2, 2011
Dustin Stephens
  5.11+
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11+
Freaking spectacular... one of the best anywhere Jan 27, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
One of the best single pitches I've climbed. The crux is cool, but the upper crack really stands out. Nov 24, 2014
Alex Randolph
  5.12
Alex Randolph  
  5.12
A #5 stopper is a bomber piece to protect the crux when placed in the construction that forms the bottom of the crack in the roof. Once through the hardest moves, I placed a yellow alien from a strenuous ringlock. Or you can muster up the courage to do one more tough move and place from a hand jam. Pick your poison! Nov 23, 2018