Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: RR, Peter Henley, 2/85
Page Views: 872 total · 6/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

If your head is a bit inflated because you just led Super Slide, hop on this little number for a reality check.

Follow the thin vertical seam to the pine tree, and continue up a ways on harder ground. Eventually you want to head for a round, beach-ball-sized scoop on the left. Past this, finish up the arete.

Location

30' or so left of the popular Digital Macabre fingercrack. Look for a little pine tree about 25 feet up on a blank slab right of a blanker arete (Defcon 5).

Protection

I remember being real glad I had a red alien on me at one point. You pretty much want to be solid at the grade for this one.

Photos

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Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Great route, a bit lichen-y...and yes it moves up and to the left of gear. This route eats up stoppers. Jan 25, 2009
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
Fun route, but yes be solid at 5.10 before leading it. Some holds on the face look real friable, so be careful what you pull/step on. Jan 14, 2014
ATX
ATX  
Definitely bring your small gear... I went up with nothing smaller than a #1 TCU and it was way too large for the crux... I ended up just going for it, but - as others have said - you'll want to be a REALLY solid 10 climber with an exceptional head game if you're going to make it up without getting injured. We were told that several people have ended their climbing season when falling at the crux. I'd propose this climb is PG-13. Also, the lichen is not confidence inspiring. Mar 17, 2019