Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Marvin Webb & Steve Kerchner, 1985
Page Views: 5,371 total · 36/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

Begin with some bouldery moves up through a low roof to an overhanging V-slot. The crux is pulling through this slot and into the crack above via some powerful moves (a good jam or two and body contortion help). Continue up the easier cracks above to a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack. A #3 Camalot is nice.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.11b
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.11b
Not sure where the #3 Camalot really comes into play unless you are placing it from the shelf, which I would see as creating some drag. I placed a green Alien in the crack above from the shelf and only used .3 Camalot-.75 Camalots. Either way, super good route. Jan 1, 2007
426
  5.11b/c
426  
  5.11b/c
I give 11b/c on onsight, but that's just cuz I pooted out well after the bulge. Wah! Prepare to hang on the whole way...powerful start; balancy and techy until just below anchors.

#3 Camalot is perfect thonker at the very end of the bulger, right b4 it turns fingers vert... Apr 13, 2008
yevquest
Southeast,US
  5.11b
yevquest   Southeast,US
  5.11b
I actually placed a #4 camalot as my first piece. Fits perfectly in the vertical slot just above the big leg swallowing shelf. Fun route. If only it were longer.... Feb 9, 2009
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.11b/c
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.11b/c
#3 makes you feel warm and fuzzy. however if you place it your only going to complicate things. May 27, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I agree with Josh that a #3 Camalot is nice on this route. I didn't find that it complicated things at all. Instead, it offered absolutely bomber pro right at the crux. Save some strength for the upper moves. Just when you think it's over, it's not over. Jan 2, 2011
Mason M
Carrollton
Mason M   Carrollton
Heck yes on the #3. Punch that thing in right before you get out of the overhang and into the fingers! May 26, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
A bomber nut can be found as you are getting through the overhang. I shoved in a red dmm offset and ended up using small gear up high as well. Really fun route, the beginning is awkward but the crimps out right are great if you trust in them. Jan 29, 2016
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
Beware of placing small cams in the steep/thin vertical crack after the huge horizontal shelf. While lowering off the top on 1/26/18, our rope sucked in a yellow metolious which may never be seen again. I’ve got beers and gratitude for anyone who can dislodge it and return it! Jan 29, 2018