Routes in T-Wall East
[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
[Redacted] T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
[Redacted] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
A Tension Span T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Accidental Oralist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Art 8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
BGP (Of Vice and Men) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Bonfire of the Vanities T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Centerfold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Coolidge Effect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Corner Pockets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Death By Boobalooba T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Defender of the Crown S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Devil's Guard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Empowerment Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Espirit Nuvo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Fox On The Run T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Geriatric's Day Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gift of Power S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Govinator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Grand Contusion T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R | |
Grandma's Couch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hands Across America T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Hell Bent For Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Hold Your Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
In Search of the Source T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Live and Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Lucy and Annie May T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Meatrix, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Meeker Rat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Moms Are Marvelous T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Not Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Octopod palace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Omen, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Over the Rainbow S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
People's Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ravin' Maniac T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Riddle on the Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Seal Test T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Slay Ride T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X | |
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Smooth Operator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Solar Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Southern Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Gardening T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Supernova T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Surf's Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Three Stars from God T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
True Colors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Tunnel Vision T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Turbo Zone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tweeter and the Monkey Man T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Unknown Soldier T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Viva La Balance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Jerry Roberts 2002 |
Page Views: | 1,199 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Blake Allen Green on Feb 16, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Make good clipping choices and climb out the dirty but solid roof to the lip. Pull a hardish move here (12cish?) and continue up about 30' of juggy terrain. When the holds disappear, put on your thinking cap and figure out how to pry the elevator doors open. Reach the only downpulling hold next to the final bolt, and make a long decisive move into the opposite seam. Pull on good holds to the anchor. One of the more decisively technical face climbs in all of T Wall.
On a day when the waterfall is running well, the route often stays dry and it's likely that looking over at the waterfall from the anchor, you might see a rainbow arching from your height on the wall all the way to the ground.
Good single rope beta for the beginning of the route: If you clip the opening draws in the roof as they're installed, you will end up with unclimbable rope drag as you enter the crux of the climb, and take some heinous falls. The beta that worked well was using a 20' stick clip to hang a 24" sling on the furthest bolt out in the roof (it has a cleaning carabiner on it). Back clip the climber from that sling into the bolt behind it with another 24" sling (technically the 3rd bolt on the climb). This allows the climber to effectively toprope or follow to the the closest sling, unclip it, and climb past the second sling without unclipping to the third draw, which protects the hard lip move. The first two bolts on the route are corroded choss and too deep in the cave to protect your fall any way. This rope management allows you to cleanly climb with out any on-route shenanigans, and makes the crux falls far softer.
On a day when the waterfall is running well, the route often stays dry and it's likely that looking over at the waterfall from the anchor, you might see a rainbow arching from your height on the wall all the way to the ground.
Good single rope beta for the beginning of the route: If you clip the opening draws in the roof as they're installed, you will end up with unclimbable rope drag as you enter the crux of the climb, and take some heinous falls. The beta that worked well was using a 20' stick clip to hang a 24" sling on the furthest bolt out in the roof (it has a cleaning carabiner on it). Back clip the climber from that sling into the bolt behind it with another 24" sling (technically the 3rd bolt on the climb). This allows the climber to effectively toprope or follow to the the closest sling, unclip it, and climb past the second sling without unclipping to the third draw, which protects the hard lip move. The first two bolts on the route are corroded choss and too deep in the cave to protect your fall any way. This rope management allows you to cleanly climb with out any on-route shenanigans, and makes the crux falls far softer.
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