Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Jerry Roberts 2002
Page Views: 1,199 total · 22/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Feb 16, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Make good clipping choices and climb out the dirty but solid roof to the lip. Pull a hardish move here (12cish?) and continue up about 30' of juggy terrain. When the holds disappear, put on your thinking cap and figure out how to pry the elevator doors open. Reach the only downpulling hold next to the final bolt, and make a long decisive move into the opposite seam. Pull on good holds to the anchor. One of the more decisively technical face climbs in all of T  Wall.

On a day when the waterfall is running well, the route often stays dry and it's likely that looking over at the waterfall from the anchor, you might see a rainbow arching from your height on the wall all the way to the ground.

Good single rope beta for the beginning of the route: If you clip the opening draws in the roof as they're installed, you will end up with unclimbable rope drag as you enter the crux of the climb, and take some heinous falls. The beta that worked well was using a 20' stick clip to hang a 24" sling on the furthest bolt out in the roof (it has a cleaning carabiner on it). Back clip the climber from that sling into the bolt behind it with another 24" sling (technically the 3rd bolt on the climb). This allows the climber to effectively toprope or follow to the the closest sling, unclip it, and climb past the second sling without unclipping to the third draw, which protects the hard lip move. The first two bolts on the route are corroded choss and too deep in the cave to protect your fall any way. This rope management allows you to cleanly climb with out any on-route shenanigans, and makes the crux falls far softer.

Location Suggest change

This is the first bolted route left of the main waterfall at the trailhead. You'll see several bolts (some manky) starting in the back of the roof and turning onto the bright orange, impossibly blank looking face above.

Protection Suggest change

8-10 bolts and 2 bolt anchor. Bolts 3-anchor have been replaced somewhat recently with SS. Bring a long stick clip.