Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 2,725 total · 19/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


118 Opinions

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Description

This is a great moderate crack route with a roof pull thrown in for fun. Fist/hand jamming through the crack section (tape gloves are a good idea) takes some finesse, but will save you some serious exertion. If your jamming skills aren't up to the task, just power through the crack with laybacking.

Starting in a left-facing corner, follow the wide crack to a shallow cave. After resting your arms here, pull the well-protected roof on great jugs and continue to the top.

Location

Starts about 40' right of Passages.

Protection

Medium to large gear for the crack, smaller stuff for the upper sections. Bolted anchors.

Photos

Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
 
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
 
This route can be a gruntfest in the first 30 ft., especially if you aren't all that good at wide cracks. Dec 19, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
I got a lot of satisfaction out of redpointing this route. Way back when I had only been climbing for a month or two, I tried to climb it on toprope and beat the shit out of myself because I didn't know what jamming was all about. Getting back to it for the first time since I was spanked and leading it clean made me feel all warm and fuzzy! Jan 22, 2007
426
426  
Sweet route, pros very well. Kind of a jr. jr. Pursuit (first 20') Mar 5, 2007
Gary Owen  
 
IMO, extremely disappointing. Jamming the bottom is awkward and tough. The roof is fun. The top is dirty. As for the "Great for the aspiring leader" comment in the DCA, I'd direct aspiring leaders to Prereq or Passages and even some 9s before Sanscrit. I won't repeat.

[Edit:] I did repeat this recently, and was pleasantly surprised. While still not as high quality as the other classic corners (and with its awkwardness and trickiness), it does have some pretty cool moves and variety. Not a good first lead, first 5.8, or easy warmup, but worth doing eventually. Mar 2, 2012
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
Agreed. Definitely a grunt fest if your jamming isn't up to snuff. This was my first lead at T-wall. I would not recommend it for the aspiring leader unless you've warmed up on a couple of easier routes first. Oct 7, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Neat route, as said below it has a tricky crack at the bottom but the leader can protect it and thrash away. The roof is very fun but not cruxy. Feb 25, 2018