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Routes in T-Wall East

A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day's Work T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Plan , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seal Test T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 2,373 total, 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great moderate crack route with a roof pull thrown in for fun. Fist/hand jamming through the crack section (tape gloves are a good idea) takes some finesse, but will save you some serious exertion. If your jamming skills aren't up to the task, just power through the crack with laybacking.

Starting in a left-facing corner, follow the wide crack to a shallow cave. After resting your arms here, pull the well-protected roof on great jugs and continue to the top.

Location

Starts about 40' right of Passages.

Protection

Medium to large gear for the crack, smaller stuff for the upper sections. Bolted anchors.

Photos

Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
Agreed. Definitely a grunt fest if your jamming isn't up to snuff. This was my first lead at T-wall. I would not recommend it for the aspiring leader unless you've warmed up on a couple of easier routes first. Oct 7, 2013
Gary Owen  
 
IMO, extremely disappointing. Jamming the bottom is awkward and tough. The roof is fun. The top is dirty. As for the "Great for the aspiring leader" comment in the DCA, I'd direct aspiring leaders to Prereq or Passages and even some 9s before Sanscrit. I won't repeat.

[Edit:] I did repeat this recently, and was pleasantly surprised. While still not as high quality as the other classic corners (and with its awkwardness and trickiness), it does have some pretty cool moves and variety. Not a good first lead, first 5.8, or easy warmup, but worth doing eventually. Mar 2, 2012
426
426  
Sweet route, pros very well. Kind of a jr. jr. Pursuit (first 20') Mar 5, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
I got a lot of satisfaction out of redpointing this route. Way back when I had only been climbing for a month or two, I tried to climb it on toprope and beat the shit out of myself because I didn't know what jamming was all about. Getting back to it for the first time since I was spanked and leading it clean made me feel all warm and fuzzy! Jan 22, 2007
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
 
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
 
This route can be a gruntfest in the first 30 ft., especially if you aren't all that good at wide cracks. Dec 19, 2006