Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Bob Ordner, Roy Briton - 1985
Page Views: 5,357 total · 36/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

Start in a small left-facing corner capped by a small roof. Pull this roof up onto the face above and follow a dwindling crack. Things get thin up high! Bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

426
 
426  
 
Watch the rope drag at the bottom. Perhaps the best way is to protect under roof and then back clean...

Amazingly good pro for how tenuous it looks/feels. Mar 5, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Yeah, just keep your eyes open for the good pieces, because there are lots of opportunites to put in marginal ones & pump out! Mar 5, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
A great trick someone showed me: place a bomber medium (#6 or 7, can't quite remember) Stopper right at the lip of the roof to keep your rope out of the crack. Mar 16, 2008
Cpn Dunsel  
 
One of the great single pitch 5.10's, like the best of the Gunks routes in this grade, packing a LOT of varied climbing into one sustained half-rope length of pure rock climbing ecstasy. Mar 19, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
One more rope drag tip! You can place a .5 size piece with a runner in the flake to the left of the roof. This keeps your rope well away from the crack at the lip. Mar 27, 2012
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
Do as Monty does: put a piece in the flake to the left above the lip to keep your rope out of the crack, or you could find yourself in a serious situation if you fall off the crux and the rope cinches in! Mar 12, 2014
A challenging lead when approached as a crack climb. Use those stylish sport climbing moves instead and the sequences will flow with much less effort! Nov 23, 2018