Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Robyn Erbesfield, Roy Britton - 1989
Page Views: 680 total · 6/month
Shared By: yevquest on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A thin, thought provoking route that's worth doing if you like less than vertical edging. Start up a bottommed-out crack that protects ok with nuts and units, heading for the lure of the bolts. Once there, climb straight up on very thin holds with decent feet (crux), clipping 4 bolts to reach a juggy hueco. There's some good gear above the hueco then some 11- climbing on poor gear (very small wires) that eventually ends in some thank God jugs. Easy climbing above leads to a ledge. I didn't see an anchor but an easy traverse left gained the Cakewalk anchors.

Location

In between Cakewalk and Golden Locks.

Protection

4 bolts and a light rack, heavy on small gear.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
I found many of the holds fragile and so sharp they cut into my finger pads. Apr 28, 2011
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
This is a pretty cool route that seemingly sees very little traffic. Oct 20, 2014
Wei Ming I'd agree it's an awesome route but definitely not for those unfamiliar with making poor gear work as well as possible - poor nuts down low with a few solid cams (but of the uber small variety, i.e. black alien, 00-000 C3). I got a great yellow X4 after the last bolt and a mid/small brassy just after that placed and pulled to set facing wide in the shallow flaring crack just before the good crimp, before the final jugs. A little surprised at the lack of anchors but set a #1 C4 and walked over to the golden locks anchors. Wouldn't be too upset if anyone felt like trying to clean out the super dirty bottom finger crack. Nov 11, 2014
Evan Raines 1
Atlanta, Georgia
 
Evan Raines 1   Atlanta, Georgia
 
Great route with little traffic. Set a nut at the rest ledge and gun for the anchors. Oct 26, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11c
Climbed this in Dec. 2015 and there is now an anchor on it. Jan 6, 2016