Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Peter Henley, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 8,473 total · 57/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


199 Opinions

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Description

Rated three stars in the DCA, this is an excellent moderate with a great panoramic view of the valley.

There are two basic variations to start Razor Worm. The easy way is starting at a huge flake, work up the right side of the flake, then follow a crack system up the face. A more exciting alternative is left of the big flake (and a tree); boulder up on good holds and continue up through a chimney section and on to the crack system. A bulge toward the top is the crux; use either of two vertical cracks about three feet apart, or barrel-hug both. After surmounting the bulge, continue up on easier ground to anchors at the top of the cliff.

Location

Starts about 10' left of Cake Walk.

Protection

Standard T-Wall rack -- small to medium gear. Rap from ring anchors at the top (new since a fire destroyed rap trees). A 60-meter rope may be just long enough.

Photos

Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.8
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.8
Fun route. I remember the anchor being a tree with webbing (as of 12/05). Protects nicely with medium nuts. Dec 6, 2006
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
  5.9-
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
  5.9-
My favorite T-Wall route. Almost every move is classic. Dec 19, 2006
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.8
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.8
Great route, nice if you don't want a pumpy warmup. No way is it 5.9. Feb 12, 2007
426
 
426  
 
The tree burned down. New ring anchors on this guy, but still, watch those ends...Tie a knott...

a fallen dead tree kind of "blocks" the thin start now... Mar 19, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
Finally got around to leading Razor Worm after all this time; what a fantastic route! The moves are fun and protection is plentiful. Don't miss this classic! Mar 7, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Great climb, start off with a short chimney to the top of a block. Now climb a crack on left with an amazing edge on the right. This section could not be more fun. Climb to what you think is a spacious ledge below the crux crack. place some pro and crank the duel cracks. Amazing climb. Jun 22, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ R
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ R
I found this route to be fairly terrifying- the hollow rock that comprises the first 20' of the meat of the route above the flake makes for iffy gear at best. Thankfully the crux protects well with a tiny cam and nut, but I still found this route to be not worth doing if I had the choice to do it again. I'm shocked it gets stars. Oct 25, 2010
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Disagree with John. This route is definitely worth doing. Crux is fun with fine gear and the hollow area is easily protected below the suspect stuff and then immediately above. And this isn't the tricky part anyway. Nov 19, 2010
#3 C4 goes nicely in hole behind the jug before crux. Dec 19, 2010
tlacny
Atlanta
  5.8
tlacny   Atlanta
  5.8
I lead this route for the first time after leading golden locks. Both are rated 5.8+ but in my opinion this route should be graded no higher than a 5.7+ or 5.8. Did the direct start into the small chimney. Very fun route with plentiful gear placement and lots of rest opportunities. Feb 24, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
I was reluctant to lead this route, mostly due to its massive popularity and my own perception of it as not being particularly aesthetic. However, I am sure I was party to a secret desire to have done Razor Worm and Golden Locks, and I am glad I gave into it! While not characteristic of most of the routes at T-Wall, that is one of the things that makes this route so special. The rock is sharp but incredible, as are both the movement and position. I also agree with the above poster; this route is 5.7+, 5.8 at the most.

Anywho, why are you still reading this drivel? Go do this route! It may be best to attempt on a weekday though, unless you brought your hammock and pillow to pass the time while you wait in line. This route is almost always a mob scene, and after climbing it I understand why. Feb 25, 2014
Darbley Sterway
Aspen
  5.8+
Darbley Sterway   Aspen
  5.8+
No line! Had this one all to myself. Dec 14, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is awesome, most certainly a classic. Not soft, be prepared for 5.8 but it protects well. The section above the pedestal is easy enough and the pro gets more solid as you move up from it, so I felt no issue with it. Fantastic moves on this gem! Feb 25, 2018