Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner and Jack Noonan 1985
Page Views: 614 total · 5/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Look up into the chasm....

Surmount some blocks and climb up into the obtuse corner. Do the handcrack thing up until the crack widens then chimney up to easy ground and prepare for the glory that awaits.

Hopefully you brought some wide gear.

You know where to go from here.....hard right for 50' of airish, underclinging to and thru a wide roof crack/chimney.

If you don't fall out of the crack taking the huge, swinging fall....gasping for breath and a bit skint.....easier ground awaits after the lip.

A .75 makes for a dandy directional.

You've eyed it from below.
This is wide school.

Time takes a cigarette....
Smoke 'em if you got 'em.


Just right of Southern Express, under the obvious roof with wide undercling crack.


small/medium to roof...#3 and #4 camalot out the roof...0.75 Camalot directional after the lip.


J Hollada
Atlanta, GA
J Hollada   Atlanta, GA
Excellent off-width adventure route. Used the full range of everything from black Alien to #6 Camalot. Be considerate of your second with a well protected traverse. After turning the lip, anchors on the right face a few body lengths above. Dec 11, 2017