Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Forrest Gardner and Jack Noonan 1985
Page Views: 1,544 total · 8/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

14 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Look up into the chasm....

Surmount some blocks and climb up into the obtuse corner. Do the handcrack thing up until the crack widens then chimney up to easy ground and prepare for the glory that awaits.

Hopefully you brought some wide gear.

You know where to go from here.....hard right for 50' of airish, underclinging to and thru a wide roof crack/chimney.

If you don't fall out of the crack taking the huge, swinging fall....gasping for breath and a bit skint.....easier ground awaits after the lip.

A .75 makes for a dandy directional.

You've eyed it from below.
This is wide school.

Time takes a cigarette....
Smoke 'em if you got 'em.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Southern Express, under the obvious roof with wide undercling crack.

Protection Suggest change

small/medium to roof...#3 and #4 camalot out the roof...0.75 Camalot directional after the lip.