Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield, Shannon Stegg - 1985. What a team!
Page Views: 1,948 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

Kinda silly but kinda cool, Finagle is a guilty pleasure, like 'Slow Ride'.

Yard along the lip of the big roof on jugs until you can pull up and get a stance. Climb a short crack until it fades, and then step left to the arete across a scoop. Finish up in excellent position on the arete to a ledge with a little pine and some new ringbolts, or cruise to the top to milk it a while longer. Bitchen!

Location

Look for a big, low roof left of a perfect orange corner, with a bent pine at the start.

Protection

Smaller. Long runners.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
The moves at the bottom are great. The route goes downhill from there... Mar 5, 2007
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.9
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.9
If you don't step left to the arete and instead follow the crack system, you get a very interesting (thin) climb. I was told this is the "direct" variation and goes at 5.9+-5.10. Mar 21, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9
Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide. May 14, 2011
DCA calls the direct variation 5.9. It's pretty thin on small gear. Fun moves, rivals Super Slide. IMHO solid 5.10. Jan 18, 2015
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Found the direct finish thin on gear and a bit hard when wet. Recommended otherwise! Mar 25, 2018