Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Micah Gentry - 2004
Page Views: 521 total · 5/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A tough start is just the first of several cruxes on this nice 5.9.

Starting at an overhang, find some elusive positive holds among the slopers to pull through a bulge. Continue up a short finger crack to a ledge, then follow a left-facing corner up to easier ground. Trend left to finish at the Garden anchors.

Location

Starts about 10' right of the Garden

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts; protecting the start may be problematical. Shares anchors with the Garden.

Photos

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Rob Dillon  
 
Engaging and recommendable, though maybe not if it's your first lead at the grade. May 8, 2013
J Hollada
ATL
J Hollada   ATL
A great 5.9 for the 5.10 leader. The climbing is excellent but the gear could be tricky unless you're comfortable fiddling with small cams and then being pretty sure you're not going to fall. Some places could be considered runout as well.

Standard T-Wall rack. Small cams a must: 2 black, 2 blue, 1 green, 1 yellow Alien or equivalent thru the thin crack and dihedral. Crux protects nicely with a shallow but solid #2. Oct 14, 2018