Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Sean Hunt, Stuart Chapin 1989
Page Views: 2,658 total · 18/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

The Tennessee Wall is known for blocky, well-featured sandstone: roofs, cracks, and corners abound. Naturally, some of these corners are of the outside variety. As they protect naturally (for the most part) as well, they attract less traffic than the less intimidating, 'inside' kind. Naturally.

Crash Position is the starter route on the T-Wall Arete Tour, offering up the classic elements of adventure (beauty, setting, exposure, and uncertainty of outcome) in a slightly milder form than its hairier, more outre' cousins.

Look for a crack splitting a varnished bulge about 15 feet right of the clip-up 'Surf's Up'. Pull the bulge, and trend up and right on easy and runout ground until the arete yields better pro and harder moves.

Protection

Good, bad, good. Nothing real big.

Ringbolts.

Photos

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cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
awesome handjams, and steming. May 27, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Hand jams? Stemming? Not on this one. Thin face climbing, to a run section, to the business up high. Nothing bigger than a .75 BD Jan 1, 2013
Dustin Stephens  
  5.9
Amazing route with a little bit of 5.7-5.8 R in the middle Jan 27, 2014
Bruce Burgess
  5.9 PG13
Bruce Burgess  
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this for the first time and found that if you take your time and find the gear, it's more like PG13. Here's some gear beta that may help if the routes reputation has kept you attempting it. Obvious gear and good stances get you up into the crack. You can girth hitch the horn and properly done this thing is bomber. After the next move is a large stopper/tricam or offset cam, then a shallow but bomber #1 C4 BD goes in the first horizontal above the crack. Up a bit higher was a very shallow but good grey alien in an iron sided horizontal. There's also a good placement in the bomber ear up and left a few feet. A move or two up and right there is a tiny but deep pocket that took a nice key-holed BD #5 stopper. A white tricam or #6 HB might go in there too. From there I stepped right and did a 5.7+ move up to the arete where the climbing gets much easier and lower angle. Pad up another move or two and you're in the money. The face climbing in the middle is on really positive holds, and the upper arete on this route is just amazing. Go do it. Dec 28, 2014
Adam Kunis
Athens
 
Adam Kunis   Athens
 
Great climb! Climbing is pretty moderate where pro is thin and good at any hard move. Dec 4, 2017
J Hollada
Atlanta, GA
J Hollada   Atlanta, GA
Extremely cool features and beautiful exposure. Not as runout as reputation leads you to believe. A few feet above the slung horn is a solid #3 pocket to protect the traverse. Ease your mind with a couple of small stoppers behind the arete rail and save a yellow Alien for the crux move at the top. Dec 11, 2017