Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: RR, Robyn Erbesfield 1/86
Page Views: 144 total · 55/month
Shared By: Andrew Richardson on Mar 11, 2024
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A serious undertaking, but some of the finest face climbing at T-Wall.

Start up Crackattack for about 15 feet until able to gain the ledge beneath the juggy, yucky rock that overhangs above the cave. Place a piece or two then commit, cutting right through difficult moves towards the base of a thin seam. Pull onto the face and rejoice, because the sketchiest part is over.

Alas, there's still about 50 feet of desperately sustained climbing ahead. Move through an endless face section of stellar orange stone, relying on lots of small cams and deft footwork for safety. I count three crux face sequences, and the moves between 'em aren't on jugs! Fortunately, the moves do ease up a bit just prior to the roof, offering a reprieve before the final showdown at roof crack corral.

There are good jams to be found in the roof. As for pulling the lip ... how do you feel about wildly exposed trad campus moves? What above feet-at-your-hands heel hooks? Or feet-over-your-hands foot jams? 

Get maniacal and pick your poison.

Location Suggest change

Between Crackattack and Open Sesame, shares anchor with Crackattack

Protection Suggest change

A lot of thin stuff, a hand-sized cam or two

I would advise headpoint tactics for this route or at least rappel over it first, but maybe I'm just cowardly.

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