Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Stuart Chapin, Cody Averbeck 2003
Page Views: 195 total · 20/month
Shared By: Andrew Richardson on Nov 20, 2023
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The best arete climb at T-Wall? There's only one way to find out.

The first 30 feet or so can be considered the price of admission. It's also pitch one, should you choose to split this climb into two pitches. Either way, climb up through some ... okay ... rock, to some thin cracks, and then finally to easy jugs beneath a roof. Traverse out left to gain the ledge, taking careful pains to float the rope if linking it all in a single pitch.

Figure out how to clip the first of three bolts without falling off the ledge -- that would suck. It's not overly difficult or terribly far, but especially short climbers may want draws in place ahead of time. At any rate, it's arete time! Move through the first pair of bolts to gain the arete, then use all the classic arete trickery of side pulls, toe hooks, and high steps to progress. The third bolt is a ways away and located high on the right side of the arete, but there's small gear every body length or so in the horizontals ... if you can place it!

This is a tremendous climb that can be done safely, but a bit of caution or some TR scouting is prudent if 11+ is near your limit. Don't place gear behind the flake between bolts 1 and 2!

Location Suggest change

Near the end of T-Wall. Look for the massive arete with bolts visible from the ground

Protection Suggest change

Three bolts and bolted anchors. Thin gear (0.2-0.75) for the first half, and thin gear (0.2-04) for the second half.

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