Routes in T-Wall East
[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
[Redacted] T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
[Redacted] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
A Tension Span T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Accidental Oralist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
BGP (Of Vice and Men) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Bonfire of the Vanities T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Centerfold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Coolidge Effect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Corner Pockets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Death By Boobalooba T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Defender of the Crown S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Devil's Guard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Empowerment Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Espirit Nuvo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Fox On The Run T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Geriatric's Day Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gift of Power S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 | |
Govinator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Grand Contusion T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R | |
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hands Across America T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Hell Bent For Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Hold Your Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
In Search of the Source T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Live and Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Lucy and Annie May T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Meatrix, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Moms Are Marvelous T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
My Lost China Doll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Not Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Octopod palace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Omen, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Open Sesame T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Over the Rainbow S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
People's Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Riddle on the Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Seal Test T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Slay Ride T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X | |
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Smooth Operator T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Solar Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Southern Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Gardening T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Supernova T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Surf's Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Three Stars from God T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
True Colors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Tunnel Vision T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Turbo Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Tweeter and the Monkey Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Viva La Balance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Rob Robinson, Curt Merchant, Pat Perrin |
Page Views: | 698 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Stephen L on Nov 19, 2019 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Harness the power of the sun and send this big-top route!
Pitter-patter up some dubious-looking rock to a tan band split by a nice vertical flake/crack (the rock at the start is better/safer than it looks). Trend up and right around a small roof on good face holds. Continue around the soft aréte and out of sight from your belayer, and finish by following an intermittent but spectacular finger crack to the top.
A nice think piece, the headwall will keep your foot work spry and placements well considered.
Robinson's ChatTrad lists this as two pitches, but it can be linked into one pitch without much drag. We used an 80m, a 70m is probably ample but watch your ends.
Pitter-patter up some dubious-looking rock to a tan band split by a nice vertical flake/crack (the rock at the start is better/safer than it looks). Trend up and right around a small roof on good face holds. Continue around the soft aréte and out of sight from your belayer, and finish by following an intermittent but spectacular finger crack to the top.
A nice think piece, the headwall will keep your foot work spry and placements well considered.
Robinson's ChatTrad lists this as two pitches, but it can be linked into one pitch without much drag. We used an 80m, a 70m is probably ample but watch your ends.
Location
Pass the large hueco/mini-cave landmark between Crack Attack and Open Sesame, and continue east on the main trail. Before the wall cuts north for the theater of Celestial Mechanics, spot the short vertical flake/crack 15' off the deck that landmarks the start.
Only the first half of the climb can be seen from the base. The best is hidden around the bend.
Only the first half of the climb can be seen from the base. The best is hidden around the bend.
Photos
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