Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Curt Merchant, Pat Perrin
Page Views: 34 total · 34/month
Shared By: Professor L on Nov 19, 2019
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Harness the power of the sun and send this big-top route!

Pitter-patter up some dubious-looking rock to a tan band split by a nice vertical flake/crack (the rock at the start is better/safer than it looks). Trend up and right around a small roof on good face holds. Continue around the soft aréte and out of sight from your belayer, and finish by following an intermittent but spectacular finger crack to the top.

A nice think piece, the headwall will keep your foot work spry and placements well considered.  
Robinson's ChatTrad lists this as two pitches, but it can be linked into one pitch without much drag. We used an 80m, a 70m is probably ample but watch your ends.

Location

Pass the large hueco/mini-cave landmark between Crack Attack and Open Sesame, and continue east on the main trail. Before the wall cuts north for the theater of Celestial Mechanics, spot the short vertical flake/crack 15' off the deck that landmarks the start.

Only the first half of the climb can be seen from the base. The best is hidden around the bend.

Protection

Standard rack. Good finger sizes for the second half will do you right; perhaps an offset for good measure.

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