Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner, Peter Henley - 1985
Page Views: 1,507 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Located on a narrow buttress of rock with a steep cave at ground level, just right of the 13 with the chains and Mrs. Socrates.

Climb up through an intial band of roofs on jugs, then plug in some high gear before pulling unto the face above via some powerful liebacks. This upper face is somewhat obscured from view by the trees, but it contains a nice wide crack with many face holds.


Standard rack.


Jeff Mekolites
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
This is just around the corner from the wall with Golden Locks, Cake Walk, et al. Great route with great gear and fun moves....it just keeps on going... Jan 22, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
I remember the gear being somewhat less than ideal in the first 20'. I could be wrong about that though. Awesome crack climbing above the powerful roof, though. Jan 23, 2008
Jeff Mekolites
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
I would say there is gear...if you wanna hang out and plug it in. Better to boulder up to the ledge and put in a couple of pieces. Jan 23, 2008
Here's the skinny...go up on the first roof, throw a #2 up in the big loose flake so if you go over the falls you won't hit the reef. Once up on the ledge, lay down in an undignified fashion and pull your cam. Step up to the real deal and pop a couple of pieces in. get ready for awkward cranks all the way through the scoop...it's on. Apr 13, 2008
cshuey77 shuey
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
426 said it best! May 27, 2010
Arthur Cammers
Lexington, KY
Arthur Cammers   Lexington, KY
Bring a #4 and a #5 BD for the upper section; when I think standard rack I stop at #3, I don't usually include these sizes. Dec 13, 2011