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Routes in T-Wall East

A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Plan , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravity Creeps T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lost China Doll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riddle on the Roof T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seal Test T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gene Smith, Laura Smith 1985
Page Views: 2,805 total · 23/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

A great candidate for your first T-Wall 11 (if you can crack climb, that is). Carefully crank a V1/2 boulder problem off the deck and get established in the beautiful splitter. "Surf" through the wave about halfway up, encountering classic locks and jams along the way.

Location [Edit]

To the left of Molly and Rocket.

Protection [Edit]

A good range of cams and nuts, emphasis on the finger-sized stuff.

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
A friend of mine thinks this route is soft, especially compared to No More Tiers. I think 11a is right for the lower boulder problem, but who rates the first 10 feet of a T-Wall climb? The rest is more like 10+. Mar 19, 2008
I would offer a different opinion. It took me a couple of years to sack up and press out that starting move, and I'm pretty sure I pulled up the rack after I stood up. This was not my first-ever .11a, so I felt safe in asserting that the move was harder than that. Of course, no move in the first 10 feet counts towards the route's grade, so call it what you like.

The rest is straightforward fingers. Mar 22, 2008
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
As for someone thinking this route is soft, I would be interested in knowing if they stick clipped a nut up high to negotiate the start. As for the first ten feet not counting, nonsense. If you can blow it and bust your ass in those first ten feet.... then it counts. Nov 20, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Hah. I don't consider this route (or anything at the T Wall for that matter) soft. My previous comment was poking fun at the frustrating tendency of T Wall route beginnings being quite hard! Nov 22, 2008
Brandon Huff
Jackson, WY
 
Brandon Huff   Jackson, WY
 
I've managed to stick clip a stopper above the opening moves... Saved me on my first try. Nov 24, 2008
426
 
426  
 
You can nasty through just right of the mantle (savage bearhug) at about the same grade (11a har har har) with some semidecent pro. Sick route, 5 star. Nov 27, 2008
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
It is soft compared to Fly with the Falcon, but that is not saying much. Aug 22, 2009
mike cork
Atlanta, GA
mike cork   Atlanta, GA
have wanted to get on this for a while and finally did a few weeks ago. couldn't even get past the start...shameful utter smack down. i don't see how that start is v1/v2...maybe a seriously high gravity day or very poor beta...dunno. Dec 20, 2010
Will Sweeney
Zachariah, Kentucky
Will Sweeney   Zachariah, Kentucky
More like a V3/V4 start. Be sure to warm up well or your tendons will pay for it. Jan 21, 2014

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