Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gene Smith, Laura Smith 1985
Page Views: 2,960 total · 23/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

A great candidate for your first T-Wall 11 (if you can crack climb, that is). Carefully crank a V1/2 boulder problem off the deck and get established in the beautiful splitter. "Surf" through the wave about halfway up, encountering classic locks and jams along the way.

Location

To the left of Molly and Rocket.

Protection

A good range of cams and nuts, emphasis on the finger-sized stuff.

Photos

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
A friend of mine thinks this route is soft, especially compared to No More Tiers. I think 11a is right for the lower boulder problem, but who rates the first 10 feet of a T-Wall climb? The rest is more like 10+. Mar 19, 2008
I would offer a different opinion. It took me a couple of years to sack up and press out that starting move, and I'm pretty sure I pulled up the rack after I stood up. This was not my first-ever .11a, so I felt safe in asserting that the move was harder than that. Of course, no move in the first 10 feet counts towards the route's grade, so call it what you like.

The rest is straightforward fingers. Mar 22, 2008
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
As for someone thinking this route is soft, I would be interested in knowing if they stick clipped a nut up high to negotiate the start. As for the first ten feet not counting, nonsense. If you can blow it and bust your ass in those first ten feet.... then it counts. Nov 20, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
Hah. I don't consider this route (or anything at the T Wall for that matter) soft. My previous comment was poking fun at the frustrating tendency of T Wall route beginnings being quite hard! Nov 22, 2008
Brandon Huff
Jackson, WY
 
Brandon Huff   Jackson, WY
 
I've managed to stick clip a stopper above the opening moves... Saved me on my first try. Nov 24, 2008
426
 
426  
 
You can nasty through just right of the mantle (savage bearhug) at about the same grade (11a har har har) with some semidecent pro. Sick route, 5 star. Nov 27, 2008
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
It is soft compared to Fly with the Falcon, but that is not saying much. Aug 22, 2009
mike cork
Atlanta, GA
mike cork   Atlanta, GA
have wanted to get on this for a while and finally did a few weeks ago. couldn't even get past the start...shameful utter smack down. i don't see how that start is v1/v2...maybe a seriously high gravity day or very poor beta...dunno. Dec 20, 2010
Will Sweeney
Zachariah, Kentucky
Will Sweeney   Zachariah, Kentucky
More like a V3/V4 start. Be sure to warm up well or your tendons will pay for it. Jan 21, 2014