Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers - 1985
Page Views: 6,660 total · 46/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

This is an awesome climb that goes through a variety of crack techniques, but also has a face crux (at least I thought so). Great pro and awesome jams!

Location

Located way down the wall. The prominent crack left of Open Sesame. Look for a fixed nut in a right facing corner down low.

Protection

A wide range. It takes everything.

Photos

Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
No more fixed nut...but there was a fixed forged friend on it this past weekend...

Great climb with a pu-pu platter of crack techniques. Mar 23, 2009
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
A great route that requires a well rounded compendium of crack climbing techniques to go at the given grade. It was also way, way cooler than it looks from the ground! This one is definitely worth jumping on. A rack of singles through #2-#3 Camalot should serve you fine, but extras would not go unused. Feb 25, 2014
ARMoss
  5.10a/b
ARMoss  
  5.10a/b
Great route! Good protection all the way up, and had a good fixed nut to protect the crux as of 12/31/14. Roof isn't too hard if you do it right. Jan 1, 2015
James Dowdy
  5.10a/b
James Dowdy  
  5.10a/b
Very cool...but, this is *MUCH* closer to an Indian Creek crack than it is a typical southern crack.
It works - and, it's worth doing, but it is also going to be a 'learning experience' for many of us... Mar 24, 2016
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
Fun climb. Particularly enjoyed the chimney moves at the top. Not so sure its worth all the hype tho.

Also, I beg to differ with the previous post; this is nothing like an Indian Creek crack. If you want a decent taste of the Creek, try Precious Orr nearby. Jan 29, 2018