Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Ben Faber 1995 (also credited to Steve Goins, Truly Bracken 1995)
Page Views: 935 total · 15/month
Shared By: J Hollada on Mar 31, 2019
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

Follow hand crack in left facing corner to a roof, throw in a #5 as far out as you can reach then pull the roof using good holds on the right face and great fists.  Above, follow the perfect offwidth while walking a #6 all the way up.

There are different names and first ascensionists credited to this route:
1993 Deep South Climber's Companion: not listed
2005 Dixie Cragger's Atlas: BGP 9+, Ben Faber, 1995
2013 Dixie Cragger's Atlas: BGP (Of Vice and Men) 9+, Ben Faber, 1995
2014 Chattrad: Of Vice and Men 10-, Steve Goins & Truly Bracken, January 1995

Location Suggest change

Around the corner from Octopd Palace alcove, look up to find the perfect wide crack splitting the upper face. Start beneath the roof at a striking hand crack.

Protection Suggest change

Bring the big stuff! Double 6's would be welcome, but easily done with single 5 and walking a single 6. Offwidth will take small aliens and a .5 inside the crack as intermediate protection. Ring anchor on the right face.


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