Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 10,551 total · 72/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Dec 30, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


171 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a great route that follows a very distinct red-colored left-facing corner. It is located between Passages and Finger Lockin' Good. There is a pronounced bulge about thirty feet up — this is the crux. Some people might lay it back, but jamming it will keep it at 5.9. Traverse left below the large roof and finish up on face holds to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

One large corner system to the left of Finger Lockin' Good. There is a reddish stain for much of the route on the wall just to the left of the crack.

Protection

Assortment of cams from 0.5" up to 3". Double hand-sized pieces for the crux; I found that the # 3 WC Friend was a better fit in here than #2 Camalot. Some may want a larger cam above the bulge (i.e., 4"); long runner or two for the traverse up top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
5.10a
Haven't led this yet, but friends who have recommend having at least four #2 Camalots on hand. Dec 30, 2006
tenesmus  
 
Fantastic jams. Unfortunately I didn't know how when I first tried to lead it. One of the best lines at all of T-wall. Dec 30, 2006
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
 
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
 
5 stars. I'd bring a 4 Friend and probably an old size 4 Camalot, too. Jan 2, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Often seeps in winter. You can't tell until you get up 3/4ths and grab the oozing buckets.

Didn't use a lot of #2s but did use fist sized gear and some aliens up high.

Bring long runners for anchors (left of roof some ways) Feb 27, 2007
charlie collins
  5.10a
charlie collins  
  5.10a
i thought i was little harder than 5.9 and some friends think the same. definitely agree with several #2 camelots and maybe few #3's and one bigger maybe. all in all fantastic climb. just did it and wasnt too wet just a little at top but not enough to matter. in fact i could avoid any wet hold completely almost. Dec 2, 2007
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
I agree with charlie collins. awesome handjams!! May 27, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
meh, a double rack works out nicely- pay attention to whats going on and dont get scared about gear.

great route, though- probably my favorite i did on this trip to t-wall. Oct 25, 2010
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.9+
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.9+
If it's been raining recently, the top seeps water into the crack and you can't see it from below. Great climb. Mar 12, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Doubles of #2 is okay. A lavender metolius works very well in the crux. You can also back clean some of the start to conserve the #2. Oct 24, 2011
Chad N
Central California
 
Chad N   Central California
 
Super Fun! I thought the 1st 25' was the crux cause of pump factor. Wide was a lieback. Roof traverse easy. Mar 18, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.9
Michael Dom  
  5.9
There is a fixed piece in the roof, the traverse is really easy compared to the rest of the climb. Watch the top because it is wet. Dec 22, 2015
tlacny
Atlanta
  5.9+
tlacny   Atlanta
  5.9+
Lead this route this past Sunday. Super Fun. Hand Jams are super solid, gear is solid. Did not really feel that the route had a pump factor to it. Thought the route had two distinct cruxes(will let you figure them out. Used a BD #4 above the first crux and would have liked a 4.5. May 17, 2016
Ryanb.
Chatt or WA
 
Ryanb.   Chatt or WA
 
Loose flake in the thin hands section Sep 16, 2017